WARE5260D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.

e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) that were easy

Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel.
use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses.
use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs.
Install motor and work above in reverse.
very simple 15min job at most.

***Partselect.com had my ordered part delivered within 3 days.*** First, I pulled up on agitator and removed it. Then, loosened bolt on coupling and removed it. Replaced with new coupling, placed and tightened new longer bolt that came with new coupling. Replaced agitator and started laundry.

I put my fingers under the agitator and pull up , this pulled it off the couplier, then I used a 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the couplier in place and pulled the couplier off, the new couplier didnt arrive until after I went to work but my wife had it all back together when I got back home,I told her what to do and she said it only took about 10 mins. to get together, very easy.

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

I first placed a rope under the fins of the agitator and used a 2X4 board to pull up the agitator which needed very little force to release itself from the agitator coupling. I removed the nut holding the agitator coupling, removed the stripped agitator coupling. Installation was just the reverse process, inserted the new agitator coupling, placed and tightened the screw, and pressed down the agitator over the agitator coupling and I was done. Over time for the repair was between 5 and 10 minutes, very easy, and I have no experience repairing washing machines.

took out the agitator then removed the agitator coupli and found out that the coupli was worn out, i then replaced it and everything worked again

The part came very fast and was easy to install, I pulled off the agitator and removed one bolt, replaced worn out part with new part and put the new bolt that came with the part in. Reatached the agitator and washed some clothes. done

1. Remove agitator with a quick upward jolt.
2. Remove bolt with ratchet or wrench.
3. Remove agitator coupling.
4. Install new coupling, tighten new bolt and slide agitator down until it latches after aligning appropriately.

I just added the agitator coupling and screwed it in.

Took new one out of package, and push it on. 4 seconds!

followed the video you provided and it was easy!