WCCB1030J2WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

Tub seal was found completely broken. Replaced it.
Then replaced tub bearing, tub bearing washer, shaft & mode shifter assembly and 6-rib drive belt.
Reassembled and tried, more quieter and like new machine.

Loosening tub nut was a challenge as it was bit corroded, use of WD40 was a great help.
Knowledge from you tube was a great help.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.

The first attempt to fix the problem did not turn out so well. I replaced the tub bearing, split ring, tub bearing washer and the hub washer. After reassembly and testing, the loud airplane noise was still present during the spin cycle
Then I ordered and replaced the mode shifter shaft assembly and, since I was going to disassemble again, also ordered a new 6-rib belt. Once reassembled and tested, it was quieter than when it was when brand new, according to my wife.
Parts came in very quickly and the tutorials/youtubes were spot on.

Followed instructions from video for shaft and mode shifter assembly and tub bearing, all went as in video except extremely difficult to remove tub nut. Could not get nut to loosen and when it did finally move it was spinning the whole shaft, had to have the shaft held with a pipe wrench from underneath (2nd person). The tub seal was another issue, removal was easy just as in the video but because water had gotten inside the seal it caused the internal metal of the seal to corrode and rust which deformed the old seal and the plastic of the tub where the seal sits. There was no way the new seal would go in and be tight enough to seal so I put a hose clamp around it, heated the plastic with a heat gun just enough to be able to tighten the clamp several times, let it cool and removed the clamp. It held its shape and the new seal went in snug so I proceeded with the reassembly. Test ran the washer and checked for leaks, no leaks. It has been a week now and approximately 10 loads of clothes cleaned, all is good.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.

I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

Turns out that water valve was bad but that's not the only thing I find out after I replaced that part my washer could not register what load size is on so there is bad pressure hose and pressure switch also. Easy unplug washer turn off water remove water supply hoses then unscrew the 3 screws that are holding control panel. Disconnect old valve from the cable plug unscrew the screw that is holding water valve. Install new valve by placing it in the same place where the old one was screw the screw that holds the valve connect it to the cable plug connect water supply hoses plug plug in the washer back and turn on the water. Check for possible leaks and test your washer by choosing the smallest load.

Took all apart.. front off,top off, took basket top off..took the basket assembley out by unhooking the four shocks. Took a picture of all wireing and fittings. Then came the most difficult. The main nut that holds the basket to the main shaft. If you do not have one of the wrenches made for that nut good luck. Between all the gunk and rusty parts around it. It would not budge. I used a pipe wrench and a 3# hammer and it wouldnt budge. It is a oppisite drive nut so it comes off in reverse as a regular one. I ordered the wrench on line to use on the new one i orderd. Had to because the nut was getting chewed up. So waiting to order the parts i needed i ground down the nut with my angle grinder.. worked well. Knowing i had to replace the main drive and bearing it wasnt that bad. Got the nut off... pulled the basket out and then the shot seal. Really looked tore up. So because of the seal leaking, the water drips down onto the main drive and thats what ruined it. Cleaned everything up really nice.. went to put the new seal in and noticed it didnt fit as tight as it should.. so i put some silicone around it and installed everything back together. Still thinking of the seal still i went ahead and finished it all and guess what. It leaked.. the seal in my opinion needs to fit over top of the plastic main bucket not just inside of it. After researching the same problem some guys said they filled the bearing seat with silicone and it helped. Others say the plastic tub needs replaced because the bearing seat is wore out.. the tub is like $70.00. The seal is $8.00. So, what to do? Buy another tub and seal and hope the seal fits in tight, or gob alot of silicone on the seal and older tank and see.. the washer new was like $600.00. Been dicontinued now. The main shaft assembley was $160.00... seal$8.00.. the tool for $15.00...misc stuff still comes out to $200.00 . Now to buy a new tub? Is it worth it or not.. we'll see

There is a metal plate on back of the top of the washer held on by 3 screws. Removed them and that gave you access to the water valve. Water valve was fastened with 2 screws. Removed them and the hose that was connected with a clamp. Reversed the order on the installation and done. Whole job took 20 min. Now I know where to get parts. This site was awesome. Ordered the part on Tuesday, UPS delivered Thursday.

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

Reached down into the washer bowl. Fingers on each side of the agitator base. Quick jolt up agitator popped out adjustable wrench took the bolt. Off of the agitator coupling removed coupling wire, brushed the gear slots installed a new coupling with both new bolt lined up, agitator slots pump, the new agitator on after lined up with a down force quick jolt, then installed the new fabric softener, part on top of agitator