HTAP1100F0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

You tube is the only way to go!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

I researched what could be the problem in the internet and follow the instructions from a GE technician, I chose the problem from a list and followed the video the technician played on how to do it yourself. This time was the lid switch which is found visible under the lid opening usually right middle flush with the opening. When I got the new lid, only the switch gets bad so I cut the cable enough to replace the old one, pulled out and cut and connected the new one. If there is not enough cable use the spatula to push the clips on the front panel on the top both side about 5 inches from the corner and pull panel out front and now you can see the wires better and make the connection.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

Very easy to put a new water pump. You have to disconnect two hoses from the pump, unplug the power connection from the pump, and unscrew the two screws from the base of the pump.

Took off the front panel of the washer which exposed electrical wires going to top lid sensor. Took out old sensor installed new. Cut wires from old sensor and spliced wires from new sensor to machines wires that went to old sensor. Replaced front of washer. Washer works fine now.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

replaced them & working fine now....