GTWP2000F0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

First tried pulling the old agitator out by hand but couldn't get my fingers under it to pull upward. Tried several times but no success. Finally put two metal rods about 8 inches long in the holes in the bottom of the agitator and used them to lift upward, it came up immediately. I then pushed the new agitator down into the slot and it was finished. There is always a way when you think about it.you are a winner.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

Removed front with putty knife to unlock hinge.removed and checked pump removed hose clamps with wrench and nut driver replaced hose reverse procedure

Popped cap off of agitator and used 12inch extension with 3/8 socket to remove bolt. Pulled off agitator and turned upside down. I then used 4 flathead screwdrivers to depress tabs on old coupling and flipped agitator back over and used a long screwdriver to push old coupling out. Flawless! Wiped everything down and pushed new agitator coupling right in place! Perfect! Put everything back together and washer is back in business!! Thank you PARTSELECT!!

The job was rather simple. After removing front panel with the aid of a putty knife to push back the spring clamps under the top panel, the pump is in plain view. Remove the two mounting screws and push back the spring clamps that secure the connection hoses. Squeezing the spring clamps that hold the hoses onto the pump can be a bit troublesome so I removed the spring clamps completely and replaced them with radiator hose clamps which made the job a whole lot easier. Replaced the front panel and the job was finished.

Removed the screws from the control panel and flipped it open. Used putty knife to pop the retaining clips that held the front panel of the washer in place to expose the drum itself. Noticed black gunk build up in hose connecting the drum to the water level pressure switch.

Disconnected the hose at both ends. Attached the new hose to the pressure switch and proved it was working by blowing into the hose and getting the water to stop flowing into the washer.

Taped the old hose to the new hose so I could use it as a pull-wire to guide the new hose through its protected housing. Attached the other end of the new hose to the tub and voila, all was well.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

It was hard for me. I'm a 54 year old woman. I tied it to the wheel with twine. It kept popping off, right it the time I would just about have it on. Several times !!!! I had no zip ties. Finally I tied the part of the craft stick on tightly. Put the belt on the motor rod and as much of the wheel as it would allow. Started turning slowly. There's really no room. I finally wiped it. There was one time that I sounded like the man off the movie Christmas Story. My youngest daughter is 13. She started laughing. It wasn't easy but I BLESS GOD for it. Thank all of you so much. Be safe and take care.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.