GTWN5550D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

The job was rather simple. After removing front panel with the aid of a putty knife to push back the spring clamps under the top panel, the pump is in plain view. Remove the two mounting screws and push back the spring clamps that secure the connection hoses. Squeezing the spring clamps that hold the hoses onto the pump can be a bit troublesome so I removed the spring clamps completely and replaced them with radiator hose clamps which made the job a whole lot easier. Replaced the front panel and the job was finished.

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

I watch a YouTube video. Showing how to put the new belt on with a zip tie. 100 percent. Success. Thank you for the correct part.replacing the drain was very ease. Use a socket set.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

This was easy and took maybe a half-hour. The harder part was pulling the front panel off (up) to access the insides. Simply snipped the wire to the old sensor and spliced the new wire and inserted the new sensor. Worked perfectly and saved me $400? on a new washer! (Cover panel is slightly bent, did not re-snap in, so it's loose; I don't care about the looks, so I will screw metal screws using a hinge to close it.)

turned washer on it side took bottom off removed hose and replaced it with the new one. so very happy i tried it , works great like before. thanks for the easy to find diagram of parts.

Removed the front panel (retainer clips), removed two screws holding the top panel and door, removed all 4 dampening straps and replaced them with the new straps, put the components back in reverse order of removal.

After noticing the leak, I moved the washer out to try to find the source. In the process, the Drain Hose Extension broke in two. As an emergency repair, I put the two halves together with duct tape. After running the washer again to try and find the leak, I discovered that it must have been the Drain Hose because now there was no leak. I then ordered a new one from PartSelect and replaced it with the repaired item.

Steps:
1.- Open the front panel by pressing down (with a spatula) the 2 metal locks located between the front and top panels.
2.- Remove the drain hose located int the lower right and at the bottom using a set of pliers and a nutdriver.
3.-Install the new drain hose.
4.-Reinstall the front panel

The installation itself took me less tha 15 minutes.
Since I had opened the the front panel, I took rthe oportunity to air clean and dust off the equipment.