GTWN4950D0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

After realizing I had purchased a used washing machine without a drain hose I thought I would never find one, but then I found partselect.com. After easily locating the part on the web site from the detailed diagrams and model number I then ordered it. Receiving the part quickly I used a socket to remove the plastic connector that prevents the hose from disconnecting once the washer is turned on. I fed the hose through the plastic connector and into the drain hole without any issues. I then used my one small socket to secruely fasten it back together. There was no additional tools or items needed to successfully attach the washer drain hose.

Basically, I just followed the instructions in the video that is posted on this sight. It went off without a hitch. Removed the screws from the control panel, lifted it up and out of the way. Then I used the putty knife to release the clips that hold the front panel in place and then removed the top of the washer. Pretty easy from there to swap out the dampening straps and reassemble the washer. Saved a lot of money doing it myself.

Reviewed your website for problem symptoms for top loading washers not agitating and possible solutions. Purchased the lid switch wiring harness. All I needed was a painters 1" putty knife, wire cutters, Philips head screwdriver, (2) electrical connectors (crimping type), crimping tool, and electrical tape. Very easy installation and problem was solved. Recommendation, the wiring harness should come with electrical connectors (crimping type). The installation video on your website was a big plus in making this small project a success

1. Unplugged the washing machine.
2. Shut off both hot and cold water.
3. Removed water hoses from back of machine.
4. Removed three screws from back of control panel.
5. Pull back hose clamp between valve and flex hose to shower head.
6. Remove two electrical connections on valve.
7. Remove two screws that hold triple water valve to base.
8. Replace valve in reverse order above steps 7->1.

The hose has a tapered end that fits in a tapered hole in the back of the washing machine.When insalled the first time,the joint leaked badly.My solution was to coat the hose end and the interior of the hole in the back of the washing machine with silicon sealant;let it set up for a few minutes and install the new hose.This solved the leak and the hose seems to be working fine now.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

I wasn't sure what the problem was. I Googled the most common problem for this washer and it pointed to the Lid Switch with Wire Harness. I ordered the part, watched the video provided, and installed it. Installation was just like the video said. Due to the lack of dexterity in my hands due to arthritis, it took about 25 minutes from start to finish. Washer works like new now.

used pliers to grip and remove old button cover, used small screwdriver to push around the edge of new cover.

Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.

Top panel was exactly what I needed and fit perfectly. To replace the top panel I first unplugged power. Removed control panel on top of machine. Removed front panel by placing a putty knife under front corners and pushing down on front panel. Removed two screws holding top panel to frame. Removed lid switch from top panel then removed lid from top panel. Lift up front of top panel and slide out of cabinet. Replaced new top panel in reverse order. The only thing I overlooked when ordering top panel was the plastic bumpers and rubber guides for the lid. Had to remove old parts from old top panel and use them. Overall job took about 45 minutes.

I had no difficulty dismantling the washer until I got to the hub nut. It was frozen to the cone shaped fitting it was resting in. I had to take a drill and a 3/16" drill bit and drill the flange of the hub nut and then take a chisel and break it off piece by piece. Once that was off, I lifted the tub out and tried to pry off the split ring under the tub and it too was corroded and broke when I tried to pull it off. So I would advise you to buy a hub nut and a split ring if you are replacing the tub bearing, just to be safe. I went to an appliance parts store here in town and bought them. When reassembling the tub, I couldn't get a wrench or pliers on the hub nut to get enough torque to tighten it securely. And since I didn't want to spend $43 to buy a spanner wrench for a one time repair, I went to Harbor Freight and bought a $15 dollar adjustable wrench and cut 3 1/2" off the handle so it would lay flat to the tub and used a hammer to tap on the handle to tighten it securely. If you do not find some way to tighten the tub securely, it will come loose in the spin cycle like it did on me twice before I purchased the adjustable wrench and modified it to work. Plus I still have a useable adjustable wrench. Additionally, I took the washer cabinet, the tub and the tub sleeve and power washed it to get years of grime off of it. The washer now operates like new, saving me hundreds of dollars.

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Ordered lid switch from parts select via website. Two days later I received the part in the mail. Instead or re-wiring, I cut wire close to existing bad switch. Splice two wires and cap with wire nuts. Zip tie loose wire to tub housing.

watched the video, and it was simple!