GTAN2800D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Unplug washer to keep from running.Pull out on selector. After determining how knob was held in place, used coat hanger with short 90 on one end to catch clip holding knob in place. Pulled clip, removed knob.Placed clip on back of new knob just enough to hold. Placed knob on shaft, pressed down on clip to lock in place. All Done. Use of small flashlight is helpful. Replug washer.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

reconnected the wires and turned the water source on

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Watched the video. Followed the instructions. This has to be one of the best sites I have ever encountered. Even a caveman could fix the problem after watching the video.

The replacement of this tripe water valve was so easy. My tub kept filling with water even though the water should have shut of. First remove the two hoses from the valve. Second you remove the 3 screws from the steel shield behind the plastic upper control pan panel. Take the shield off. Remove the control panel and lay on the washer. Then take the filler hose to the tub off using pliers to remove the hose clamp. Then take the two screws out of the valve. Twist and remove the valve. That is the removal. Reverse all of these to put it back on and test out. This valve fixed my problem. Anyone can do this who has any basic knowledge of tools.

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

The dial is held on the cycle control shaft w/a clip. Using a small pair of long nose pliers, pull the clip out of the slot in the control knob. Remove the outer knob exposing the indicator.Easy....

Reach down and grab the base of the agitator with both hands and yank up with slightly more pressure on the left or right, whichever side you prefer. This will break loose the holding clamps/pull straight up. To re-install: align slots and push down until it snaps. Simple as that.

Surprisingly easy. I took the screws off, then pulled off the drain hose. I then inserted the new hose, and put back the screws. Amazing quick!

Followed the instructions on repair clinic video

Pull hose out from wall and drain water into bucket. Remove two screws from back of washer holding on the clip. Pull hose out from washer its in there about 3 inches or so . If you order a new clip will make this even easier it's only $3.87 and I didn't realize I needed it. So, I just cut the old hose with a small saw near the clip so I could remove it and reuse it. Just slide the clip onto the end of the new hose - it fits into one of the grooves-I just made a note of where that was before removing from old hose. Then replace the two screws on the clip going to the back of washer. Put other end of hose into pipe in wall.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.