GRWN5550D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Removed the front of the washer using a putty knife. Removed the old belt and used a shop-vac to c,San up the insides. Placed the belt on the pulley and used three med sized zip ties about one inch apart. I cut off the exposed tail of the zip ties. Got the belt started around and put the belt onto the small pulley. Keeping an eye on the small pulley to make sure the belt did not slip off, I had to push it up a time or two. Then as I pulled the big pulley around, one zip tie broke, replaced it and continued pulling the big pulley, it got tough but with one knee pushing on the drum and pulling with one had it went on. I did slowly turn it to align the belt on the big and small pulleys. Not hard, I recommend a bright flashlight and gloves. I saved a good buck doing it myself :-)

Unplugged...Removed back from washer...Using nut driver-cordless drill...Inspected hose-found leak....Removed hose with pliers & screw driver.....Than dried the hose...& than for temporary fix (for the wife to continue washing) used some Epoxy for rubber.....Than ordered new part. Received and reinstalled replacement. Thank you

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

Easy as can be. Similar but not exactly like the YouTube videos, but close enough. Biggest problem was pulling the filler tube off of the mixer and re installing the tube. Nothing to get worked up about.

The washer came apart fairly easy until I tried removing tub nut Huge Problem!! After beating the spanner wrench to death I purchased a $50 43mm impact socket to remove the nut. I cleaned up the tub and shaft and started reassembly by replacing bearing 6006rs that I found locally. When I started installing the tub seal I ran into a major issue. Seal would not fit properly, it was to loose in tub. The seal was not large enough for outside diameter. It was a 1/16 of inch or so off. I tried two seals and neither one would work. After talking with a retired repair tech I found that the tub was bad and that the old seal had corroded so bad that it expanded the tub seal housing. I decided not to spend anymore money for this junk of a washer and I applied rtv sealant & reassembled. I'll use it until it breaks down and trash it, very bad design for tub seal, nothing holds it in place, pushed up out of tub. I don't think the rtv sealant well hold for very long. I do appreciate the instructional video for repairs, they are very helpful for showing procedures as to the repair but it's a new machine that's used and everything comes apart so easy. 5 year old washer doesn't come apart that easy. It took 2 weeks to fix it after waiting on parts and doing a unconventional repair to tub seal. So now my wife has started searching for another washer because this one is running on a prayer!

You tube is the only way to go!

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Very easy to put a new water pump. You have to disconnect two hoses from the pump, unplug the power connection from the pump, and unscrew the two screws from the base of the pump.

Easy, even for a mildly competent amateur. Unplug, turn off water, remove three screws holding top piece. Remove plug in electrical connections and screws holding valve in place. Loosen clamp holding rubber hose to the valve. Put new part in place and reverse the process.
The only thing a little difficult was removing the hose between the valve and the washer. Although I did it by myself, it would be a lot easier if you had someone holding open the spring clamp that holds the hose in place, while a second person tugs the hose off the valve assembly.