GMAN4250F1WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.

Old agitator was stuck on and i could not pull it of.I used two claw hammers and put the claw under the agitator and broke it free.Worked perfect" Took five minutes "

Removed agitator with rope idea. One quick jerk and it came off. Removed coupling. Replaced with new coupling. Reinstalled agitator. Works fine. Note: I could not see anything wrong with the old coupling. It looked brand new with no noticeable wear!! Thanks for your help in recommending the part that most likely would fix the problem.Tom

My washing machine would not agitate. I looked online for the possible repair solutions under GE website. All I needed was my model number. I typed in the model number and it gave me possible solutions. I ordered the parts from part select. Once they came in, I then went online to find video of how to repair the machine. When I found the video I needed I began disassembling my machine. I pulled the agitator off with a brisk tug and used my socket wrench to unscrew the coupler nut. Once that was off, I installed the new coupler tightened the bolt and installed the agitator. I filled the machine enough for a small load and sure enough, it worked! I did not need to use the belt, but I will have it on hand if I need to. I saved on separate shipping. VERY PLEASED!

Simply unclamped the lower end of the hose, then used the nut driver to release the upper clamp of the hose. Took it off, replaced it with the new hose and re-clamped both ends. It took me about 12 minutes to do this. Very easy repair!!

The video I watched said to remove front panel, control panel, and top panel. After I removed the front panel, I was able to remove the lid switch and splice the wires together and reinsert in the mounting without removing the other panels. Secured with wire tie and put front panel back in place. This did not, however fix the problem.

I removed the front cover on washer I tied wrapped one side of the belt to to the back pulley and placed the belt on the the motor pulley then placed the belt installer on pulley below belt with gloves on I started rotating the pulley in the back and when it started getting s little tight I moved pulley back and forth then started turning in clockwise direction again and belt went right on.i cut the tie wrap after making sure belt was secured and evenly on then turned pulley to make sure belt was secured removed belt installer and replaced front cover.i am a 57 yr old woman and did this job by myself.so easy when you have the belt installer also.

Pullout the old hose and put in the. New hose. Did it myself, and I'm a 58 yr old female. Easy,easy.

Removed the softener despenser by pulling it straight up, then did the same with the agitator, except I had to turn it a little then pull straight up.

We pulled out the old parts and then we got the new parts and we put them in,

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

I watch a YouTube video. Showing how to put the new belt on with a zip tie. 100 percent. Success. Thank you for the correct part.replacing the drain was very ease. Use a socket set.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.