GHWN4250D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Watched the video. Followed the instructions. This has to be one of the best sites I have ever encountered. Even a caveman could fix the problem after watching the video.

turned off off water supply, unplug plugged washing machine and removed back panel to access triple water valve. removal was easy that took about thirty minutes.

My rubber start button gave out after 10+ years...kept getting stuck inward and was unreliable. I thought about buying a new washer but my old one still works fine and the new ones are super expensive! My wife and I only do a couple of loads per week so decided to try to fix it ourselves.

Ordered a new one from this site. Was about $20.00 for the new button, but I have not spent a dime in over 10 years! I just cannot believe how easy it is to find the part and place an order. All you really need to do is to find the tag on the washer with the model number. What a fantastic business and website!

The install was easy...pulled out the old one using a pair of needle nose pliers (still useable in an emergency) and installed the new one. I was smart enough to coat the new one with a little Vaseline and it slipped (wiggled) right into place. For the record, the washer works just fine without the button too.

Glad I tried to fix it. Would have cost me a couple hundred bucks for a professional repair.

Good work ! PERFECT!

Repair video is spot on but does not emphasize securing the drain pump to the washer before reattaching hoses. This holds the pump in place allowing you to compress the hose clamp while pushing on the hoses.

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

This is a normal condition; the old bolts are self-tapping so simply align them well, I used a drill-driver to get them started and completed tightening with a socket wrench. (Also the new drive shaft assembly comes with a tub seal, so you don't have to order a separate one.) I do think it would be better if the drive assembly came with 4 new bolts.
The instruction video was immensely helpful, Thank you.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

Removed control panel removed old pressure switch installed new switch replaced control panel plugged in washer.everything worked the way it is supposed to.

I removed the top cover , then unplugged all the wire connectors. I then replaced the control board and reassembled the wiring and cover.

Unpacked the agitator from the box. Manually pulled off the old agitator and snapped on the new one. Total repair time was under 2 mins. Much better than a $120 service call.

Pried the front cover off the washer and then rotated the tub around for easier access to the hose clamp. Used screwdriver on hose clamp then detached spring clamp from pump inlet. Reversed the procedure for repair!

Popped the front cover off and found a small hole was in the drain hose going to the pump,used pliers for one clamp and nut driver for the other clamp,removed bad hose and installed the new hose,ran water pump after putting some water in the tub,checked for leaks,put the front cover back on,that was it.

First I had to remove the front cover to the washer.
Then it was just a matter of using the nut driver to loosen the clamp holding the hose to the tub portion, and a channel lock for the clip on the drain pump. Pull the old hose out, do the same thing vise versa for the install... Only hard part was the clamp on the drain pump was being a little difficult (but no big deal).