GCVH6800J5BB General Electric Washer - Instructions

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

I saw the video on how to remove the boot seal, and I just follow the instructions. Replacing the water inlet pipe was easy.

1) Remove door hinge cover. 2) Remove hinge door plate. 3) Remove hinge door pin using a hammer and striking tool if necessary. 4) Using needle nose pliers, remove gasket inside clamp from the door boot seal. There is a spring at the bottom that should allow you to pry this part out and off. 5) Pull the door boot seal away from the exterior cabinet to allow access to the hinge. 6) Remove the hinge screws 7) You should now be able to remove the hinge. 8) Install new hinge and reverse steps to reassemble.

The cycles were taking forever, then would not finish, water running in even when it was supposed to drain. Unplugged washer and water would still run, I had to turn off the water valve. I just removed the top with phillips screwdriver, removed the old valve by uncoupling the water hose, the two electric connectors and the two one screw holding it in place. It fixed the problem completely, washer working 100% now.

Followed your instruction, very easy. I installed Camco 90" & 45" Brass elbows to relieve strain on hoses.

Step 1- pull washer away from wall. Step2- unplug power, shut off water and disconnect lines, and disconnect drain line. Step 3- unscrew 3 screws from bk and 3 screws from behind control panel. Step 4- remove back of control panel and top of washer. Step 5- unplug wires from old valve and plug into new valve to avoid wrong connection take out screw from back releasing old valve , insert new valve and put back screw. Step 6 put top of washer and back of control panel on and insert screws. Step 7- reconnect hoses and drain , plug washer in and test. All done. I recommend adjusting to level if necessary at this point before pushing back against wall. Good luck. Hope this helps somebody. Jon

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

took off the top and back cover and noticed 4 shocks at the bottom of the Agitator frame. The problem was the Agitator assembly is suspended by 2 big springs and the shocks limit motion, but the whole assembly would move about 7 inches side to side which was not normal, and during the spin cycle it would violently bang the sides and make noise. The shocks/damper had a plastic pin at the bottom, which I pulled out first and the top had to be turned 90 degrees to snap off, so I replaced all 4 shocks with new ones. A bit tight quarters, but I had it done in about an hour. The washer is back to normal now.

Unplug the machine. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel of the washer. Loosen the tub pulley bolt. Remove the old belt (mine did not completely break, it was shredded and slipped off the pulley). Replace with the new belt. Tighten the pulley bolt. Put the back panel on. Plug in the washer. It is working like new. :)

Removed old pump and replaced. Did not want to wait 2-3 weeks for a repair person

Let me begin by saying I'm a woman & don't really think of myself as handy but will try a repair. So at first look we thought we'd have to hire a repairman, but after looking at your website & reading the reviews I realized I could fix it myself (or atleast try). I wouldn't recommend doing this repair yourself without watching the YouTube video showing step by step instructions. It was involved - had to take entire front & top off of washer but overall was an somewhat easy fix. The hardest part to me was getting the 2nd band off of the boot seal primarily due to it's location, so when I put band back on I tried to adjust the angle should I have any other problems. Repair took about 1 1/2 hours but wouldn't have taken as long if I didn't have to fight with nut & bolt on the 2nd band.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!

Accessing the door seal was routine. Removing top and front covers was easy. Lower front cover was a challenge because the leaking door caused the screws holding the panel to rust, so extra effort had to be used not to strip the screw heads. Seal removal was easy, replacing the seal was much more difficult. The majority of the repair time was spent attaching the new seal to the drum. It became a tedious task with a large amount of trial and error. Replacing the front spring clamp also takes some time. Eventually I completed the repair and fixed the problem. I will say that if the washer breaks again, it's going to the dump.

Took of back and lower panel to check where leak was look up and notice the plastic piece cracked and then look up diagram of model and ordered part. Once it arrived it didn't take very long to repair. Easy to a bit difficult and no more leaks.