WPRE8150H2WT General Electric Washer - Instructions

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

replaced them & working fine now....

I watched the video provided by your site and followed it. I removed the clothes softener part from the agitator, Got a good grip on the agitator and pulled up. It came right off. Aligned the new agitator groves and slid it into place, put the fabric softener part back on! Super easy.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

I replaced the hose between the tub and the pump. The only difficulty came with the accessibility of the problem area. I just pulled off the front panel of the machine and used a screwdriver and pliers to loosen the attachments and put the new hose in place.

The repair would have gone well, however partselect sent me the wrong part. Instead of a washer belt, they sent me a door seal to what looks like a refrigerator

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.

The hardest part is lifting the washer to get a the bottom. Disconnect the power, shut off water. Disconnect hoses and drain hose. Move washer from the wall about 2 feet. Tilt up front of washer. I used 4 12" long 8x8 inch lumber, lift washer….place one on each from corner. Lift again, place 1 more 4x4 on each existing 4x4. Now remove the belt off the 3 pulleys. Use the flat blade screw driver to remove the C clip holding the Pully on the shaft, with the flat bladed screw driver and hammer. Once the C clip is off remove the metal washer, pulley, plastic lock (apart of the bottom of the pulley & the thrush bearing and it's washer. Using the parts supplied (the "new thrush bearing is a bearing and washer combined) replace as you removed it. Thrust bearing, pulley, washer and, c clip. I tapped mine on using the flat bladed screw drive……becareful not to break it (they did supply 2 for me in the repair packet) make sure he c clip is secured. Lower the washer after removing all the tools from under the washer, by reversing the lift sequence. Slide the washer in place. Connect the hoses back up. Plug it in.Reconnect the drain hose, you should be good to go.

Pulled the agitator off by hand. Loosened the screw on top of the coupling and pulled old coupling off by hand. Replaced part with new coupling and socketed it in place. Replaced agitator by-hand by simply pushing it down on top of coupling making sure the plastic teeth aligned.

Watched a how to video. Pulled the agitator. Determined that the agitator coupling was worn out. Matched the old agitator coupling to new replacement one. Ordered it. Pushed the new agitator coupling onto the fitting. Secured it with the old bolt. Replaced the agitator. Repaired.

I paid over $100 several years ago to have this same repair done by an appliance repairman. I did it myself this time for less than $20. Definitely watch the installation video before you start. Remove agitator by pulling it up by its bottom flange (protect your face in case it pops off suddenly). Remove bolt holding agitator coupling onto the transmission shaft. Pull up on old coupling and remove it. Clean grooves on transmission shaft and then install new coupling over the shaft. Reinstall old bolt and the agitator following video instructions on lining up agitator on the coupling. Note: Standard Fedex Smartpost shipping took 6 days to go from Louisville, Kentucky to western North Carolina. If you're in a hurry it's worth it to pay for expedited shipping. Lots of dirty laundry piles up in a week!