WCSR2090G6CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

I removed the bottom pan and found the problem , It was the drain hose , then I removed the hose , and began to look for a replacement part , and my search lead me to Parts Select .com , It was MOST helpfull and for that I thank you guys , I got my part and insalled it in about 15 min. and took the machine back into the laundry room hooked it up and it's been doin good sense .

Popped the front cover off and found a small hole was in the drain hose going to the pump,used pliers for one clamp and nut driver for the other clamp,removed bad hose and installed the new hose,ran water pump after putting some water in the tub,checked for leaks,put the front cover back on,that was it.

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

followed instructions on you-tube. shut off water faucets. disconnect hoses from washer. remove three hex screws from back of control panel. lean panel forward and slide to the right, then remove it and lay it down.
remove the two screws that hold the valve to the machine. use pliers to slide the clamp back and remove the hose. repeats these steps in reverse to finish job.
the first valve that partselect shipped leaked from the hot water hookup and was deemed to be defective. partselect credited my account before the part was at their warehouse. great service all around.

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

Without any research, I imagined it might be the old hoses, so I bought new ones. When attaching them, I saw the threads were stripped at the washer end of the hot water hose. I bought the valve, and unscrewed the nuts holding the console in place. The clamp on the exit hose from the valve was a bit tricky, it was hard to hold it squeezed open while simultaneously maneuvering the hose off the valve. When I received the valve it looked like the electrical connections might be very complicated, but in fact it was very simple, a single plug.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.