WBVH5200K0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed top cover, loosened front door cover, removed & replaced old cracked plastic 'water inlet tube', reinstalled front door unit & top cover. Very tight space to work in when not completely removing front door unit.

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

I saw the video on how to remove the boot seal, and I just follow the instructions. Replacing the water inlet pipe was easy.

hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

After looking at the video on how to repair a door boot seal on a Front Loader Washer. I went about installing the new boot seal, but after it still didn't fit in place correctly, I glanced over the top and noticed and after a few minutes noticed that one of the suspension springs was broken and the drum had dropped quite a bit. I ordered the spring I believe it was part 204 and in a couple days I and my father got the spring in place and now the washer is working as good as new. As it turns out I didn't need the door boot seal after all so now I have a backup incase one fails.

Any repair should go easily if you have the right tools and the right PARTS. Like the before mentioned and all went well. The hardest thing about this particular water leak is identifining were the leak is. These parts are on the top of the washer. Take the top off and whamo there it is the cracked fill tube and smashed to hell washer. Real easy to replace. BUT that is really putting a band-aid on the problem. To me this washer was poorly designed by GE. Washer sits on a thick rubber mat, which sits on a conrcete floor and still jumps around, mainly when towels are in it.Fix that problem and then replacing these parts is a one time deal.

You probably won't want to publish this but it worked. The baffle on the GE washer I have required a complete tear down of the machine's front and outer waterproof drum to get a tiny little screw out. Very poor design if you ask me. And, I was not about to pay a technician for a massive overhaul to get a 3/8" long stainless screw off the broken remains of the baffle. So, I measured how far over the screw was from the pipe that feeds detergent, softener and bleach into the drum. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer drum. After removing the screw and installing the new baffle (which took all of about 2 minutes), I put a 3/8" hole plug I bought at Lowes into the hole with two part plastic epoxy. Then I covered the entire hole plug with a crown of epoxy. Five minutes later when the epoxy set, I ran a load of clothes. It ran perfectly and did not leak. I know. I know. This is not what you would recommend to your readers but it worked. I was brought up fixing everything around the home and any effectie shortcut was/is used. Oh,by the way, if you know which GE engineer thought up the design for this baffle installation, whack him on the head once.

1) Remove door hinge cover. 2) Remove hinge door plate. 3) Remove hinge door pin using a hammer and striking tool if necessary. 4) Using needle nose pliers, remove gasket inside clamp from the door boot seal. There is a spring at the bottom that should allow you to pry this part out and off. 5) Pull the door boot seal away from the exterior cabinet to allow access to the hinge. 6) Remove the hinge screws 7) You should now be able to remove the hinge. 8) Install new hinge and reverse steps to reassemble.

Unplug the machine. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel of the washer. Loosen the tub pulley bolt. Remove the old belt (mine did not completely break, it was shredded and slipped off the pulley). Replace with the new belt. Tighten the pulley bolt. Put the back panel on. Plug in the washer. It is working like new. :)

All i did is pull the front panel off,then n removed the front clap with channel locks then the side clamp the same way.i then removed the main clamp with a Phillips screwdriver very simple not ever 15 minutes to do

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

took off the top and back cover and noticed 4 shocks at the bottom of the Agitator frame. The problem was the Agitator assembly is suspended by 2 big springs and the shocks limit motion, but the whole assembly would move about 7 inches side to side which was not normal, and during the spin cycle it would violently bang the sides and make noise. The shocks/damper had a plastic pin at the bottom, which I pulled out first and the top had to be turned 90 degrees to snap off, so I replaced all 4 shocks with new ones. A bit tight quarters, but I had it done in about an hour. The washer is back to normal now.

Accessing the door seal was routine. Removing top and front covers was easy. Lower front cover was a challenge because the leaking door caused the screws holding the panel to rust, so extra effort had to be used not to strip the screw heads. Seal removal was easy, replacing the seal was much more difficult. The majority of the repair time was spent attaching the new seal to the drum. It became a tedious task with a large amount of trial and error. Replacing the front spring clamp also takes some time. Eventually I completed the repair and fixed the problem. I will say that if the washer breaks again, it's going to the dump.

Sandblasted spider to thoroughly clean it and increase ductility.We used aluminum foil covered in 5200 on one side to cover holes eaten through spider. Then glued the spider to the drum and filled inside rim of spider with a nice layer of 5200. If the spider was made of stainless steel, the washer would still be running great. Thanks

Remove the bottom panel. Remove the top. Remove the front panel with the door. Romove the two clamps on the boot seal. Remove the old boot seal. Place the new boot seal on the casing around the drum and ensure you put the gasket nozzle and gasket nozzle washer in place. Install the inside gasket clamp with the clamp bolt to the right as you look at it (Note: ensure the nut is over the tab on the boot gasket and stays lined up there as you tighten it. Replace the front panel of the washer and when it is in place put the boot seal on the outside lip (Note: this is the most difficult part as the gaskets does not like to stay in place as you put the outside clamp on. Replace the washer top. Replace the lower panel (Note: while you have the bottom panel off, you may want to clean the debrie trap which is a white pipe and tray that catches stuff that is left in pockets.) For the entire project I used 7mm and 8 mm sockets, flathead screw driver, and a philips head screw drive.