WBSR3140G3CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

unpluged the machine.undo the hoses off the machine took the back plate off to were I could access the triple water inlet took off the two wiring adators,and the hose that was on the triple water inlet then the two phillipshead screws. throw the bad one in the trash.and then put everything back together

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

You tube is the only way to go!

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

All can be done from front but enough access to rear is needed just to get to 3 screws.
First remove knobs (one has a plastic hair pin keeper. remove with needle nose pliers. Then remove outer ring knob by prying gently.
Remove 3 screws in back to release front panel. Slide panel an inch to the right to release the plastic tabs. Panel lays down. One screw holds the timer. Remove then turn timer 1/8 turn to release from plastic ears. Unplug the one multiple conductor plug. (Pry to start with screwdriver but note the lock latch, pry it slightly to release).
Mount new timer by reversing above. The kit had a cardboard guard which didn't fit but we mounted slightly below timer and it served whatever purpose it had. (Original had none)
Plug the cable (fits the same as old timer). Replace panel but matchng those plastic slots and move an inch to the left to lock in place. Put panel back into position but don't put 3 screws in until tested. Push on knob, Put keeper hairpin onto knob and push it on. (We ordered new knob online, plastic wears). Try part of a cycle just to see if anything happens. A few seconds is enough. Replace back 3 screws. Brag to wife or hubby or anyone who will listen.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

I followed the video from the website to install the lid switch. Worked like a charm. Great instructions. You do need to supply your own butt splice connectors .

Removed the top panel and twisted the old pressure switch off counter clockwise. Then disconnect the electrical plug and the plastic hose attached to it. Do the reverse for putting the new one on. Very easy repair that you only need a screw driver for.

I pulled on the bottom edges of the agitator, like the video said, until my fingers were numb. Finally, after I got aggravated, I beat the old agitator into a hundred pieces with a hammer and chisel. Then I slid the new agitator into place and gently tapped on the top of it. It snapped into place and has worked like a new one every since.

No problem with the replacement. Great company to order parts. Received them as expected.

I was using vice grips to turn the control knob (stub) until the new knob arrived. The replacement knob was a redesigned type with a metal backing plate to place on the control knob stub (better than the original plastic knob) however the diameter of the new knob is only half the size of the original knob and the mark on the dial does not line up with the markings on the dryer control panel making it difficult to know what cycle you are using or how far to turn the dial within each cycle before passing to the next cycle.

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.