WCVH6800J1MV General Electric Washer - Instructions

hold drive pulley from turning and used socket wrench to remove nut. then pulled off pulley from shaft and belt came off same time. very carefully filed the flat sides of the shaft end where the pulley slides onto. careful not to overfile or round out the she shaft end. carefully tap in place the pulley onto the shaft. install a new nut and tighten it approx. 40 ft pounds or 1/4 turn past tight. do not reuse old nut. pulley comes with a new one and the nylon on the old one is no good once used. once pulley is tight install the belt first onto the motor shaft then work the other end of the belt onto the pulley from top end then turn the pulley wheel counter clockwise as you push more belt onto the pulley wheel. kind of like putting on your bicycle tire on your rim.

You probably won't want to publish this but it worked. The baffle on the GE washer I have required a complete tear down of the machine's front and outer waterproof drum to get a tiny little screw out. Very poor design if you ask me. And, I was not about to pay a technician for a massive overhaul to get a 3/8" long stainless screw off the broken remains of the baffle. So, I measured how far over the screw was from the pipe that feeds detergent, softener and bleach into the drum. I drilled a 3/8" hole in the outer drum. After removing the screw and installing the new baffle (which took all of about 2 minutes), I put a 3/8" hole plug I bought at Lowes into the hole with two part plastic epoxy. Then I covered the entire hole plug with a crown of epoxy. Five minutes later when the epoxy set, I ran a load of clothes. It ran perfectly and did not leak. I know. I know. This is not what you would recommend to your readers but it worked. I was brought up fixing everything around the home and any effectie shortcut was/is used. Oh,by the way, if you know which GE engineer thought up the design for this baffle installation, whack him on the head once.

I watched the video and followed the instructions. First remove power. Remove the rear cover from the control panel and the top cover. Then remove screws that secure the control panel to the frame and remove the control panel. Remove the bottom cover. Then remove the lock ring that holds the rubber boot to the front panel. Remove the door and remove the water inlet pipe. Assemble the machine and run a test cycle.

I saw the video on how to remove the boot seal, and I just follow the instructions. Replacing the water inlet pipe was easy.

1) Remove door hinge cover. 2) Remove hinge door plate. 3) Remove hinge door pin using a hammer and striking tool if necessary. 4) Using needle nose pliers, remove gasket inside clamp from the door boot seal. There is a spring at the bottom that should allow you to pry this part out and off. 5) Pull the door boot seal away from the exterior cabinet to allow access to the hinge. 6) Remove the hinge screws 7) You should now be able to remove the hinge. 8) Install new hinge and reverse steps to reassemble.

The cycles were taking forever, then would not finish, water running in even when it was supposed to drain. Unplugged washer and water would still run, I had to turn off the water valve. I just removed the top with phillips screwdriver, removed the old valve by uncoupling the water hose, the two electric connectors and the two one screw holding it in place. It fixed the problem completely, washer working 100% now.

Followed your instruction, very easy. I installed Camco 90" & 45" Brass elbows to relieve strain on hoses.

Step 1- pull washer away from wall. Step2- unplug power, shut off water and disconnect lines, and disconnect drain line. Step 3- unscrew 3 screws from bk and 3 screws from behind control panel. Step 4- remove back of control panel and top of washer. Step 5- unplug wires from old valve and plug into new valve to avoid wrong connection take out screw from back releasing old valve , insert new valve and put back screw. Step 6 put top of washer and back of control panel on and insert screws. Step 7- reconnect hoses and drain , plug washer in and test. All done. I recommend adjusting to level if necessary at this point before pushing back against wall. Good luck. Hope this helps somebody. Jon

First I removed the excess water by using my shop-vac both inside the machine as well as near the bottom drain valve. After cleaning out that valve (which somehow had accumulated a pair of underwear) it was apparent that the drainage pump motor was no working (loud hum, not spinning). Replacement was easy, folowing instructions found everywhere on-line. Now the machine is working perfectly again.

My husband read all of the posted notes and then went to the you tube video noted by one of the postings. He gives excellent instructions and the video can be paused as each step is completed. The most difficult steps were gaining access to the rear clamp and attaching the rear portion of the gasket. Inserted a phillips head driver bit into a 1/2" deep socket and then used the rachet to remove and re-install this clamp.

took off the top and back cover and noticed 4 shocks at the bottom of the Agitator frame. The problem was the Agitator assembly is suspended by 2 big springs and the shocks limit motion, but the whole assembly would move about 7 inches side to side which was not normal, and during the spin cycle it would violently bang the sides and make noise. The shocks/damper had a plastic pin at the bottom, which I pulled out first and the top had to be turned 90 degrees to snap off, so I replaced all 4 shocks with new ones. A bit tight quarters, but I had it done in about an hour. The washer is back to normal now.

Unplug the machine. Remove the 4 screws on the back panel of the washer. Loosen the tub pulley bolt. Remove the old belt (mine did not completely break, it was shredded and slipped off the pulley). Replace with the new belt. Tighten the pulley bolt. Put the back panel on. Plug in the washer. It is working like new. :)

Removed old pump and replaced. Did not want to wait 2-3 weeks for a repair person

Let me begin by saying I'm a woman & don't really think of myself as handy but will try a repair. So at first look we thought we'd have to hire a repairman, but after looking at your website & reading the reviews I realized I could fix it myself (or atleast try). I wouldn't recommend doing this repair yourself without watching the YouTube video showing step by step instructions. It was involved - had to take entire front & top off of washer but overall was an somewhat easy fix. The hardest part to me was getting the 2nd band off of the boot seal primarily due to it's location, so when I put band back on I tried to adjust the angle should I have any other problems. Repair took about 1 1/2 hours but wouldn't have taken as long if I didn't have to fight with nut & bolt on the 2nd band.

After I disconnected the power and water and turned the washer around. I removed the back panel cover and the top and back panel to get to the pulley wheel. Once I remove the retaining nut and pulley the wheel off the spindle, i compared the new and the old parts and noticed the obvious wear on the old part, luckily the spindle was not damaged and still functional. Placing the new pulley wheel was a little more challenging. Once I seated the pulley wheel with a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. I fitted the lock nut onto the spindle and continued seating the wheel evenly using the nut to the prescribed torque pressure. After I reassembled the washer and reconnected the water and power, tested the washer, and success!