WISR309DGDWW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Old agitator was stuck on and i could not pull it of.I used two claw hammers and put the claw under the agitator and broke it free.Worked perfect" Took five minutes "

Shut off power, removed both water hoses, detached drain hose, noticed the plastic drain hose was splitting, entered the model number in a web search, ordered part from PartSelect. received part next day and reversed previous process. Tested repair and no leaks.

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

My washing machine would not agitate. I looked online for the possible repair solutions under GE website. All I needed was my model number. I typed in the model number and it gave me possible solutions. I ordered the parts from part select. Once they came in, I then went online to find video of how to repair the machine. When I found the video I needed I began disassembling my machine. I pulled the agitator off with a brisk tug and used my socket wrench to unscrew the coupler nut. Once that was off, I installed the new coupler tightened the bolt and installed the agitator. I filled the machine enough for a small load and sure enough, it worked! I did not need to use the belt, but I will have it on hand if I need to. I saved on separate shipping. VERY PLEASED!

Simply unclamped the lower end of the hose, then used the nut driver to release the upper clamp of the hose. Took it off, replaced it with the new hose and re-clamped both ends. It took me about 12 minutes to do this. Very easy repair!!

Remove front panel by pulling on both sides of it at top.

Loosen clamps on both ends. Tub end uses 5/16 socket on extension. Pump end uses plyers.

Replace hose and re install clamps.

after reading repair stories, decided I should take front panel off and see where leak was coming from. taking the panel off was real pain but well worth as inside was dry! so I looked again and discovered a pin hole in drain hose that only leaked when tub was full. while I had panel off I noticed tub dampening straps were broken so went ahead and ordered those parts too.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

replaces as per video. Very helpful

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

removed front of washer and removed top of washer very easy to replace 4 dampening straps (2 straps were broken replaced all 4

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.