GCWP1005M1CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

Followed your video instructions and removed agitator.Used 7/16 3/8 in socket wrench to remove bolt in the agitator coupling and replaced coupling. Put new bolt in and tightened. Installed Agitator.Works Great.

Popped off the front panel and removed two screws that help top down. Then pulled the top of the washer up and leaned back out of way.Then each strap had a screw on each end and a clip that holds straps just remove the old and replace with new and put back together.

used a socket to unscrew the clip. pulled out the old hose, slid the new hose into the clip and screwed the clip back on. all fixes should be this easy.

Turned off the both the hot and cold water. Removed the hoses from the back of the control panel. Removed 3 panel screws to expose the inside of the component parts. Removed the 2 screws holding the valve. Installed the new valve. Then I pulled off the knob for the temperature control. To remove the switch, you need to press the tab that locks in the switch and turn the switch counter clockwise to remove the switch from the panel. Reverse the operation to reinstall the new switch. Pay close attention to the 4 wires that clip to the switch to get them in proper order. Reinstall the control panel and and reattach the hoses.

You tube is the only way to go!

First, remove the old water pump by disconnecting the respective hose, then wipe the area where the pump was, and proceeded to connect the new water pump, of course I did all this with the machine disconnected from the power electric, then proceeded to connect the inlet hoses of hot water and cold water, electricity connected to the machine and did a test with clothes in the washing machine. and now everything is going well, thanks for your valuable help.
sincerely, a satisfied customer

I followed partselect repair videos to see how to pop off the front panel and also remove the top control panel. Lay the control panel on top of the washer and leave everything connected. With power disconnected I first checked the fill tube and fill sensor by pulling the rubber tube off the bottom of the drum and blowing in the tube - you can hear the sensor click on and off. It requires more pressure if you set the water level switch to a larger load. This behavior told me the tube and sensor were working but this must be an airtight system to be reliable. To test for slow air leaks I blew in the tube to cause the switch to click, then clamped the rubber tube shut with a C-clamp. I left it overnight and no leaks - the switch was still activated in the morning, as I could hear it click when I released the C-clamp. I then suspected the fill valve, so I plugged in the power cord, set the washer for a load and started it. The water started filling and I unplugged the power cord, which should cause the fill valve to shut off immediately. It did not - it kept on filling with water, but in this case eventually shut off after 60-90 seconds. Since it did not shut off immediately when power was removed I knew the fill valve was sticking. I ordered the fill valve from partselect and received it in a couple days. Replacement was easy - shut off water, remove the hoses, and then 3 screws and two electrical connectors to swap out the valve. Then 3 screws to put the control panel back on and snap the front panel back in place. Done. Since replacing the fill valve the washer has been working perfectly.

Followed video to take washer apart. I used the Shaft & Drive Assembly to tap out bearing as it was stuck. BTW the screeching was because the Shaft & Drive Assembly ball bearing retainer cage was in pieces. Replaced tub bearing and installed new Shaft & Drive Assembly. Washer now runs like new. Get the spanner wrench to remove existing nut and purchase a new nut.

First I located the trouble. I noticed that it was water leaking and figured it had to be a hose. I took the front panel off of the washer and after noticing that the drain hose had a slight hole in it, realized that I could fix it and save myself a repair call. I undid the two hose clamps and removed the hose. I went to a local repair shop that could not guarantee the right part. I went online and found Parts Select.com. I entered minimal information and the picture of the item that I was looking for, the Drain Inlet Hose, was staring at me! Within 3 business days and less than 20 dollars spent, I repaired my washing machine. The total time spent to repair after I received the hose took about 10 minutes. I will definitely use parts select .com and recommend to all my friends and family. Thank you.

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

Unplug machine, verified the hot water line to the washer was clear. Used screwdriver to remove top panel from washer. Removed faulty (rusted) temperature switch from seating. Then removed each of the wires from the old switch with needlenose pliers and placed them on the proper area of the new switch. Placed the switch back on the panel and screwed the cover back on. Then plugged the unit back in an tested the hot, cold and warm settings. Easy fix.

Followed video on You tube that showed step by step how to compete repair.
The machine used in video was brand new and there was no corrosion on any parts so disassembly was much easier in video than on 9 year old machine.
Also reinstalling drive belt was a little tedious but overall job very straightforward and resulted in positive improvements in performance and greatly reduced noise levels.

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.