GSRE5600K3WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

old one out, new one in. new one is seated, but not a perfect match bracket to hold hose in washer does not fit on this replacement hose properly. But I feel comfortable with the result & use

The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

after reading repair stories, decided I should take front panel off and see where leak was coming from. taking the panel off was real pain but well worth as inside was dry! so I looked again and discovered a pin hole in drain hose that only leaked when tub was full. while I had panel off I noticed tub dampening straps were broken so went ahead and ordered those parts too.

Someone did it for me.

I watch a YouTube video. Showing how to put the new belt on with a zip tie. 100 percent. Success. Thank you for the correct part.replacing the drain was very ease. Use a socket set.

Removed front with putty knife to unlock hinge.removed and checked pump removed hose clamps with wrench and nut driver replaced hose reverse procedure

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

It was hard for me. I'm a 54 year old woman. I tied it to the wheel with twine. It kept popping off, right it the time I would just about have it on. Several times !!!! I had no zip ties. Finally I tied the part of the craft stick on tightly. Put the belt on the motor rod and as much of the wheel as it would allow. Started turning slowly. There's really no room. I finally wiped it. There was one time that I sounded like the man off the movie Christmas Story. My youngest daughter is 13. She started laughing. It wasn't easy but I BLESS GOD for it. Thank all of you so much. Be safe and take care.