WPRB9220D1CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

removed front of washer and removed top of washer very easy to replace 4 dampening straps (2 straps were broken replaced all 4

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

Removed front cover, disconnected wires and hoses, reversed process

Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.

watched Partselect video and followed instructions step by step

First I unplugged the washer and then removed the front panel of the washing machine using the puddy knife running it along the top edge approximately 3 inches inward from each corner found the tab on each end and pushed in with the knife until the panel popped loose from the top tabs. I then located the pump motor on the lower front right side of the machine and compared it to the new one that I had purchased,(they were the same) Note;be sure all the water is drained from the washer otherwise get ready for a bath approximately 1 gallon of water came out of the drain hose that is located on the back of the pump after using the pliers to squeeze the clap and remove the hose,this was the worst of the whole job,then remove the inlet hose on the top by squeezing the spring clamp with the pliers. Next unplug the harness located in the front of the pump,and then last take a 1/4 drive ratchet w/extension and a 10 mm socket and remove the 2 hex screws on the mounting plate. Install the new pump and motor assembly in reverse order with the instructions above and you should be washing clothes in no time. Thanks

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.

Removed the old pump put in the new one

The pump would stick and not pump the water out from time to time. I have removed the pump before and cleaned it so to replace it wasn't much different for me. The instructions on the web site were pretty straight and easy to follow.

After receiving the wrong part 2x instead of magnet assy I received a metal clip ring. ordererd magnet assy from another source. iNSTALLATION IS VERY SIMPLE. REMOVE 2 SCEWS IN THE LID WHICH HOLD THE MAGNET IN PLACE AND REPLACE THE MAGNET WITH NEW ONE. TEST TO MAKE SURE ALL OPERATIONS ARE NORMAL.

Was easy. Removed pump, ordered yours and replaced