WCRD2050H0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the old one and installed the new pump, by removing the front cover and disconnect everything.

e.g. First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires...) that were easy

This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

The video on your site on the page for this belt was perfect. Really just using a tie wrap to hold the belt as you spin it to put in place was a very helpful idea. It was easy and less expensive than a new washer!

replaces as per video. Very helpful

Easiest thing I ever did on the computer. U tube helped me diagnose the problem and how to remove the old pump and install the new. Parts Select menu was easy to navigate and had a picture of the pump I needed. The cost was affordable and I got the satisfaction of making the repair myself.

The video on this site was very good and simple compared to others so if you are replacing a belt please follow the directions given here. A few comments:
* when you compare the new belt to the old do not panic - the old belt is much larger which would explain the slipping.
* get the belt installation tool - it is worth it
* use three tie wraps instead of one. I never got a single one tight enough to hold the belt. using three it went straight on.
* as in the video, move the belt around to the right once the tie wraps are in place
* once you start to move the belt onto the drum pulley be sure the belt is hanging below the pulley and it is clear of the motor mounting brackets. There is not enough clearance if the belt rest on top of the pulley as you move it around. The motor mounting bracket seems to want to catch the belt and you run the risk of cutting the belt.

It took me less than 45 minutes with my learning curve so the next one will take less than 25.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

I heard this is a tool you need to get that belt on with out slipping off. we thought we had the wrong size belt it as impossible at first to get the belt on. what a struggle

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..