WKXR2100TAAA General Electric Washer - Instructions

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

Watch the videos you might be a little skeptical at first. I watched the videos about 8-10 times before I bought the part so I took my part out first then got back on you tube watched a few more videos and got on parts select website found the part matched it up to what I pulled out of my washer ordered it got to me in a weeks time put it in and working like new again cost about 14.00 shipping and part together saved about 200.00 per my estimate I had to fix it.

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.

removed front washer cover (2) clips at top released with straight screwdriver . removed washer top cover (2) 1/4" head screws that are behind front washer cover. Then removed screws holding tub dampening straps (4)5/16" head from agitation drum housing from top, removed other end of strap from under side (4) 1/4" head screws. then assembled with new straps in reverse order. easy repair nice and quiet again.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

removed three screws from back panel used putty knife to remove front panel and dampening strap were there to remove.

follow youtube vid. simple

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

replaces as per video. Very helpful

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.