WBSE3120B1CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

I used the "belt" technique to remove the agitator. It was difficult at first to remove but after a few tugs on the belts that were looped under the plastic bottom, the agitator came up. Then I unscrewed the bolt holding the coupler. The agitator coupler kit purchased from PartSelect came with a new screw so I replaced the old coupler with the new one and fitted the new screw in it's place. I put the agitator dasher back on and then it worked perfectly.

Easiest thing I ever did on the computer. U tube helped me diagnose the problem and how to remove the old pump and install the new. Parts Select menu was easy to navigate and had a picture of the pump I needed. The cost was affordable and I got the satisfaction of making the repair myself.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

Removed front cover, disconnected wires and hoses, reversed process

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

First i noticed a small leak coming from the pump assembly dripping onto the motor/pump bracket with indications that it had been doing this for some time.Looking @ this i then took the pump/motor assembly off cleaning the inlet and outlet of pump off so i could plug one side of the pump while blowing into the inlet side of the pump verifying that the gaskets around the pump assembly was in fact leaking.Replacement was very easy.Purchased a new pump/motor assembly from parts select and received it in three days.Used a flat tip screw driver to press on top front clips pulled away from front of washer then up and off.The pump/motor assembly only has two screws holding it down then i pulled off the electrical connector after that used channel locks to remove both inlet and outlet hoses off pump.Installed new. very easy

After receiving the wrong part 2x instead of magnet assy I received a metal clip ring. ordererd magnet assy from another source. iNSTALLATION IS VERY SIMPLE. REMOVE 2 SCEWS IN THE LID WHICH HOLD THE MAGNET IN PLACE AND REPLACE THE MAGNET WITH NEW ONE. TEST TO MAKE SURE ALL OPERATIONS ARE NORMAL.

Removed the old pump put in the new one

First I removed the Front panel with a screwdriver, poped right out. Disconnected the two wires, removed two clamps from hoses on pump, then two screws at base. removed old pump, installed new pump ,tighten two screws, reinstalled hoses and clamps to pump, then put front panel back on, job completed in less than 1/2 hour. tested washer, pump worked and drained tub. easy fix saved cost to repairman $150 plus part cost.
Thanks for the information , learned how to change pump from another repair story on your web site!!

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.