WCSR2090G3CC General Electric Washer - Instructions

First buy the tub nut wrench. I can't over emphasize that! $12 at amazon. With out it getting the inner tub out will be the worst part of the job. And you will have to buy a new nut. I had trouble getting the old bearing out of the outer tub. I had to drive it out with a punch. The only other problem I had was after getting everything back together the new tub seal leaked. When I installed it if fit very loose on the OD. I ordered a new seal hoping it would fit tighter but it didn't so I coated the the seat of the tub and the OD of the seal with gasket shellac. That solved the problem. Working great.

Manufacturers info for accessing the timer was vague and I ended up removing more of the shell than was necessary. Once the timer was exposed, the removal and reinstallation was quick and painless.

I removed the front panel, disconect the Level Pressure Switch and conect the new one, the only thing that took me most of the tima was calibrate the instrument.
whene you disconct the hose that goes in th side of the L P S. to replace it for the new one you have to be care full. FIrst install the new part, then before you conect the hose let the machine fill up with water up to the firt level ( small load), to do this,calculate the water amount, then blow the hose to leave the hose free off air to create, a vacume then install it on the original position.

We pulled off the bottom cover to access the pump. The washer was on its back and that made it easier to reach. There was two hose clamps to pull off along with the two electrical parts. Very easy to replace.

1.Pulled the agitator out. Unscrewed the top nut, which was a little tricky to break loose since it had been in place for over 10 years. Pulled out the entire washing cylinder to unscrew and replace the hub. Not bad but you need to take out the inner tub and that requires doing a little extra unscrewing and prying.

I watched the video from the web site and the one that came with my invoice. This made it very easy to fix.I got the tools that I needed and went to town on the repair.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

replaced them & working fine now....

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

With screwdriver, I removed screws holding old hose in place. Attached new hose and screwed into place.

Popped off the front of the washer, removed old pump by disconnecting 2 hoses, 2 screws and power. Pump new pump in, reconnected everything. Done. Quite possibly the easiest repair ever!

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

This sounds like an easy fix to replace the shaft seal after watching the video, Oh how WRONG was I.....Firstly the video and parts list show just pull the agitator off..... NOOOOOO the bolt (Screw) is deep inside the agitator and that has to be removed to get the agitator off.....maybe in some models they have changed this poor design but not mine....As the screw is open to all the water and detergent guess what, it was so corroded you could get a sock to grip on it. Only solution was to cut the agitator in half at the bolt head level to get a vice grip on the rounded bolt head to undo it........It doesn't stop there, then you have to remove the fins in the remaining part agitator to get get the vice grips on. OK so far so good, now try and undo the big left hand thread nut....good luck, totally corroded, tried penetrating oil, heating it up you name it, nothing. I had a 1 11/16 socket but you need a deep socked as the shaft protrudes too far...solution drill the nut in three places to break it off the thread....OK so far we are winning....Now try to get the split spacer off the corroded shaft, no way was that going to happen it did eventually span in half so had to buy that too.....NOW WE STILL have to get the washer off the shaft...Run out of space to continue...

The picture of how to depress the clips to remove the front was incorrect. The clips are 4" from the sides not immediately at the sides per the picture. The 4 rubber springs were only part of what was needed for the washer. The old gas dryer was still working. There are two more springs on the bottom of the tub missing not shown on diagrams, so it still sways side to side, bangs around and makes a lot of noise. After putting on the 4 rubber springs, it ran, but probably needed a new clutch also, because it wouldn't spin dry anymore. I ended up spending $2000 for new washer and dryer from Maytag, and throwing out these old machines today.

I had to take out the front panel to access the Tub. Afterward the work wasn't hard.