WCSR4110TBAA General Electric Washer - Instructions

I had already removed the old coupling by removing pulling the agitator straight up off the coupling, then I removed the bolt that held the coupling in, and pulled the coupling up off the shaft.
I placed the new coupling on the shaft and pushed it down until it seated, put in the new bolt that came with the coupling, replaced the agitator, and was washing clothes within 10 minutes.
On time delivery, right part, complete with instructions.
Good job.

Remove screws from front panel, removed two screws holding valve in place, "found it would be easier to remove upper back panel also to get the hose clamp back on", Disconnected wires and reconnected to new valve, put the screws in rear and front panel, hocked up the supply lines and done. Worked great. Took me maybe 5 min. from start to finish

1. Disconnected Water Hoses (Hot & Cold). Needed a wrench to initially loosen and then used my hand to remove them.
2. Opened the Control Panel, by unscrewing and removing the cover.
3. Pulled out the two electrical plugs (labelled which one goes where with a tape) connected to the old water valve.
4. Pulled out a tiny hose connected to the old water valve (by loosening a clamp that held the hose tight with a pair of pliers).
5. Removed the old valve, put in the new. Reattached the hose, the electrical plugs, closed the control panel, and reattached the hot & cold water hoses.
6. Problem solved.

First I unpluged the unit then I remove the hot and cold water hoses from the back. I removed the torx head screws that hold the control cover at the top of the washer, then I located the water valve. Once I located the water valve I took the 2 phillips head screws that hold it in place out , unpluged the electrical connecters took the water supply hose off. I then removed the old valve and replaced it with a new one.Then I put everything back together. very simple job 10 minutes tops.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

Removed the screws, pulled out the tall skinny thing that rotates, pulled out the broken part, ordered the new one, replaced it, (you have to push down until it snaps into place) Put everything back together and had clean laundry within 45 minutes. Anyone can replace this part.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

took the two screws that holds the instrument selections off retreived the directions from inside this panel and followed directions step by step and removed the spline that makes the machine agitate, seen that the inside of the spline was smooth, ordered part and reversed operation in putting it back together.
p.s. make sure the refill shutoff hose is connected as we had forgot to do this and we ran water on the floor, had to take back apart and re-connect thehose .

ordering the part and fixing it myself with my sons help saved me a repair bill which I am sure would have cost me at least $75.00 more.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.