WCSR4110TBAA General Electric Washer - Instructions

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Remove screws from front panel, removed two screws holding valve in place, "found it would be easier to remove upper back panel also to get the hose clamp back on", Disconnected wires and reconnected to new valve, put the screws in rear and front panel, hocked up the supply lines and done. Worked great. Took me maybe 5 min. from start to finish

1. Disconnected Water Hoses (Hot & Cold). Needed a wrench to initially loosen and then used my hand to remove them.
2. Opened the Control Panel, by unscrewing and removing the cover.
3. Pulled out the two electrical plugs (labelled which one goes where with a tape) connected to the old water valve.
4. Pulled out a tiny hose connected to the old water valve (by loosening a clamp that held the hose tight with a pair of pliers).
5. Removed the old valve, put in the new. Reattached the hose, the electrical plugs, closed the control panel, and reattached the hot & cold water hoses.
6. Problem solved.

First I unpluged the unit then I remove the hot and cold water hoses from the back. I removed the torx head screws that hold the control cover at the top of the washer, then I located the water valve. Once I located the water valve I took the 2 phillips head screws that hold it in place out , unpluged the electrical connecters took the water supply hose off. I then removed the old valve and replaced it with a new one.Then I put everything back together. very simple job 10 minutes tops.

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.

The repair was done as describe by others with the "hub nut" having to be cut off due to corrosion. Instructions for removal of the tub were found inside the control panel area on the left hand side. Ordering s new hub nut and cutting off the old one proved to be a necessity.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

removed front of washer and removed top of washer very easy to replace 4 dampening straps (2 straps were broken replaced all 4

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

As the video described. The two rear dampening straps holding screws were only accessible from underneath making their installation much more difficult than the front ones which were accessible from the top.