WCSR4110TBAA General Electric Washer - Instructions

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

1, remove agitator. 2 on top of the agitiataor coupling you will see a bolt. Rap lightly with a hammer and with vice grips gently remove the bolt. why vice grips if its been in there for awhile this will be your best choice. No worries the kit comes with a new one.3 Pull the coupling sraight up and out. 4. Align the splines of the new coupling with shaft and gently tap the new one on. 5 Lube the oring and tighten bolt. 6 align the splines of the agitator and gently seat the agiator all the way down. might take awhile to align everything.
trouble shooting tip remove the front cover, turn machine on and hold the agitator, no, not the kid, the one in the machine. If the agitator stops moving but the machine continues to work and the belt or pump shaft turns its the coupling.

Remove screws from front panel, removed two screws holding valve in place, "found it would be easier to remove upper back panel also to get the hose clamp back on", Disconnected wires and reconnected to new valve, put the screws in rear and front panel, hocked up the supply lines and done. Worked great. Took me maybe 5 min. from start to finish

1. Disconnected Water Hoses (Hot & Cold). Needed a wrench to initially loosen and then used my hand to remove them.
2. Opened the Control Panel, by unscrewing and removing the cover.
3. Pulled out the two electrical plugs (labelled which one goes where with a tape) connected to the old water valve.
4. Pulled out a tiny hose connected to the old water valve (by loosening a clamp that held the hose tight with a pair of pliers).
5. Removed the old valve, put in the new. Reattached the hose, the electrical plugs, closed the control panel, and reattached the hot & cold water hoses.
6. Problem solved.

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

First I unpluged the unit then I remove the hot and cold water hoses from the back. I removed the torx head screws that hold the control cover at the top of the washer, then I located the water valve. Once I located the water valve I took the 2 phillips head screws that hold it in place out , unpluged the electrical connecters took the water supply hose off. I then removed the old valve and replaced it with a new one.Then I put everything back together. very simple job 10 minutes tops.

1. Remove agitator with a quick upward jolt.
2. Remove bolt with ratchet or wrench.
3. Remove agitator coupling.
4. Install new coupling, tighten new bolt and slide agitator down until it latches after aligning appropriately.

I removed the center piece in the washer by pulling up on it, removed the retaining bolt and the agitator coupling.

Installation reverse of removal...no problems. The spline on the inside of the agitator coupling was worn out.

I never would have though about it until I searched the problem on line. I had already decided that I would have to buy a new washer (again)...I had a pressure switch problem about 6 months ago.

PartSelect is great...I ordered the parts for both problems from them and I have kept my old washer alive.

I put my fingers under the agitator and pull up , this pulled it off the couplier, then I used a 11mm wrench to remove the bolt that holds the couplier in place and pulled the couplier off, the new couplier didnt arrive until after I went to work but my wife had it all back together when I got back home,I told her what to do and she said it only took about 10 mins. to get together, very easy.

We removed the agitator then the bolt holding couplier. The inside of the plastic couplier had stripped after 5 years. We cleaned around the metal part of the agitator then installed the new GE plastic couplier, put in the bolt & replaced the agitator. The machine works better than ever.

The GE website said this part had to be replaced by a certified technician. The estimated service call alone was $80 & the part was not available from the GE website.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

The repair was done like the video suggested to do and in the order. And it worked well.In the step by step procedure.