WPSE4270A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

My rubber start button gave out after 10+ years...kept getting stuck inward and was unreliable. I thought about buying a new washer but my old one still works fine and the new ones are super expensive! My wife and I only do a couple of loads per week so decided to try to fix it ourselves.

Ordered a new one from this site. Was about $20.00 for the new button, but I have not spent a dime in over 10 years! I just cannot believe how easy it is to find the part and place an order. All you really need to do is to find the tag on the washer with the model number. What a fantastic business and website!

The install was easy...pulled out the old one using a pair of needle nose pliers (still useable in an emergency) and installed the new one. I was smart enough to coat the new one with a little Vaseline and it slipped (wiggled) right into place. For the record, the washer works just fine without the button too.

Glad I tried to fix it. Would have cost me a couple hundred bucks for a professional repair.

Good work ! PERFECT!

Watch the videos you might be a little skeptical at first. I watched the videos about 8-10 times before I bought the part so I took my part out first then got back on you tube watched a few more videos and got on parts select website found the part matched it up to what I pulled out of my washer ordered it got to me in a weeks time put it in and working like new again cost about 14.00 shipping and part together saved about 200.00 per my estimate I had to fix it.

REMOVED THE AGITATOR BY LIFTING STRAIGHT UP WITH MY HANDS. COULDN'T REMOVE THE COUPLING WITH THE NUTDRIVER AT FIRST, DUE TO RUST. SPRAYED A LITTLE WD40. LET IT SET FOR FIVE MINUTES AND REMOVED THE SCREW VERY EASY WITH THE PLIERS. TOOK OUT THE OLD COUPLING AND REPLACED IT WITH THE NEW ONE. THANKS FOR THE YOU-TUBE INFO.

(As I am an older female, I used YouTube to review the repair before trying it. YouTube scared me, the actual repair was much easier) I removed the agitator from the washer which revealed the agitator assembly held in place by a bolt. After removing the bolt, the assembly was lifted off the spindle. I cleaned the grime off the agitator, the spindle and the bottom of the washer basket. New agitator assembly was placed onto the spindle and pushed down. There was a distinctive click when it slid into place. I replaced the bolt to the top of the assembly. tightened it down, then slid the agitator over the assembly, matching grooves to teeth until that also slid into place with a click. It honestly took me longer to clean the grime than to change the part. Agitator is working perfectly

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Wife put on the new part and she used a pair of plires and it was a little difficult to get her hand in the tiny spot but she put it on in less than 15 minuets and it is working great.

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.

I pulled the top off of the washer and found that my leak was coming from a small hole in the hose and water inlet. I had to remove 2 small bolts and a hose clamp to remove the old part,I did the reverse to install new part.

Removed the old one and installed the new pump, by removing the front cover and disconnect everything.