WCCD2050F3WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Was easy. Removed pump, ordered yours and replaced

I took off the front of the washer with two screw drivers. Removed the hose clamps with the pliers then removed the two screws with the nut driver and changed out the pump. Nothing to it. Easy fix, it works like new for $45 and 15 minutes.

So easy to fix. The best thing about it all was the guidance of the website. We were able to locate the exact part and followed the instructions on how to replace, piece of cake!

First tried pulling the old agitator out by hand but couldn't get my fingers under it to pull upward. Tried several times but no success. Finally put two metal rods about 8 inches long in the holes in the bottom of the agitator and used them to lift upward, it came up immediately. I then pushed the new agitator down into the slot and it was finished. There is always a way when you think about it.you are a winner.

pulled up on agitator and it came off and replaced it with the new one

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

If you follow the video that part select provides you will be just fine.

Removed the softener despenser by pulling it straight up, then did the same with the agitator, except I had to turn it a little then pull straight up.

Repair went great. The large nut had to be soaked to free it but the part was an exact fit.

Repair was done with the help of step by step insructions available on utube, just enter model# and the repair you need to do. One problem I had was new tub seal{GE part] was a little smaller in diamater than the seal I removed And still leaked when I first ran washer So I took it back out and used a sealer [Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac compound from auto parts store] as recommended by one of the the repair techs on utube and it sealed it perfectly, just let it set op for about three hours and nice and dry now

I watched the YouTube video. Great help. The part was at my house less than 24 hours after I ordered. Great delivery! The repair was a no brainer even for a novice like me.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

follow youtube vid. simple

First I unplugged the washer and then removed the front panel of the washing machine using the puddy knife running it along the top edge approximately 3 inches inward from each corner found the tab on each end and pushed in with the knife until the panel popped loose from the top tabs. I then located the pump motor on the lower front right side of the machine and compared it to the new one that I had purchased,(they were the same) Note;be sure all the water is drained from the washer otherwise get ready for a bath approximately 1 gallon of water came out of the drain hose that is located on the back of the pump after using the pliers to squeeze the clap and remove the hose,this was the worst of the whole job,then remove the inlet hose on the top by squeezing the spring clamp with the pliers. Next unplug the harness located in the front of the pump,and then last take a 1/4 drive ratchet w/extension and a 10 mm socket and remove the 2 hex screws on the mounting plate. Install the new pump and motor assembly in reverse order with the instructions above and you should be washing clothes in no time. Thanks