WBSR3000F0WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

The back of the control panel had an instruction pamplet that was very useful. 2 parts did not go as written tho. To "pop" the spinner out, required short 1x4s and a shake/shingle bar to pry it up and the wedging of the 1x4s under it, until enough strain was put on it to "pop" it off. Then the large 1&11/16 nut was a bear. It required a short pipe wrench (so it fit in the tub) and a hammer to brake it loose.

Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!

Had never repaired a washer before, but have several tools and enjoy working with my hands. Knew it would be cost prohibitive to call a repairman, and didn't have anything to lose. Quick delivery from partselect -- reasonable price, too. This was as easy as simply taking the whole washer apart (NOTE -- there are instructions behind the knobs inside the unit that are very helpful!) replacing the transmission and putting it all back together. Hardest part was getting the hub nut off of the transmission axle. To get it off (REVERSE THREADED, so 'tighten' to 'loosen') I used a 1 11/16 socket and impact wrench. Use the same tool to tighten (but go EASY...don't overtighten). This was not difficult, but just took some time. A couple of evenings later, we were washing again like NEW. Part cost around $160, labor was 'free' and much less than a new $500 top loader or $800 front loader. If you enjoy taking things apart and have some tools, then go for it!

1. Noticed there was and obstruction in the air line that feeds the water level pressure switch. Cleaned out the air line but still had intermittent problem with flooding.
2. Evaluated the fill solenoid valve with meter and was functioning properly
2. Evaluated pressure level switch with meter and noticed that the switch was not changing state as it should when the water level is increasing. Replaced the level pressure switch, but still had problem.
4. Noticed the air line was damaged and had a hole that prevented pressure from building up. Replaced the air line and all is good!

followed the instruction on the wiring sheet and removal and repair sheet that comes with the wahing machine. They wee very good directions and the only problem that I had wa getting the 1 and 11/16 inch not off the shaft that holds the tub to the transmission, The main problem was that the transmission had leaked all over the break and the tub would spin while hitting the pipe wrench with a claw hammer. Ended up using a 10 lb sledge hammer to hit the pipe wrench and that finally loosened up the nut, but that was the only real problem i had. I say this was easy except for getting off that nut

Instead of calling a repair man, we decided to look up the problem on the internet. We found that other people had the same problem on a website such as this. We narrowed it down to 2 parts. I opened up the panel on the washer where all the controls are (only 4 screws). Inside the panel was a diagram of the washer. We thought it would most likey be the Water level Pressure Switch. I found the part right away and removed it, I removed two connectors. It was really easy.
We ordered the part online and it came really quick (within two days). I installed the new part(Water level pressure switch) and tested it. The washer worked perfect and did not overflow. We tested it again with a load of laundry. Everything was good.
We saved a lot of time and money by fixing it ourselves. We did not have to wait around all day for a repair man and the part was under $30.00. I am happy the way it all turned out.

Removed front cover, lifted lid. Unnapped the broken tub cover pulling the tub forward to allow the old cover to clear the rear of the housing/top. Installed the new tub cover by once again doing the same thing and carefully snapping it into place. Reconnected the rubber sping offloads, lowered the top and reinstalled the front cover..ready to run.

I followed the instructions provided by GE that were stored in the control section of the washer. Removing the hub nut was a huge pain. It took Liquid wrench, hammer, pipe wrench and patience to remove it. Other than that it was fairly easy. I didn't like the way the tub seal fit so I used some silicon gasket making material to help make sure the seal sealed good against the tub.

First i the four screws on the switch area remover the front panel. Remover the lid swith and replace it. It was good to go again. It is as easy as one two three.

Unplugged washer. Removed four screws on the top panel, unplugged and removed old water level pressure switch (which was visually broken), replaced with new part, put the top panel back on, re-connected power, and tested to make sure that the washer would now fill to Extra-Large. Worked!

Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.