WPSE7003A9WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

First I unplugged the washer and then removed the front panel of the washing machine using the puddy knife running it along the top edge approximately 3 inches inward from each corner found the tab on each end and pushed in with the knife until the panel popped loose from the top tabs. I then located the pump motor on the lower front right side of the machine and compared it to the new one that I had purchased,(they were the same) Note;be sure all the water is drained from the washer otherwise get ready for a bath approximately 1 gallon of water came out of the drain hose that is located on the back of the pump after using the pliers to squeeze the clap and remove the hose,this was the worst of the whole job,then remove the inlet hose on the top by squeezing the spring clamp with the pliers. Next unplug the harness located in the front of the pump,and then last take a 1/4 drive ratchet w/extension and a 10 mm socket and remove the 2 hex screws on the mounting plate. Install the new pump and motor assembly in reverse order with the instructions above and you should be washing clothes in no time. Thanks

This site is amazing. I entered my model# and described the issue and they identified the part. I watched the repair video once and made the repair in the same time as the video. One caution. Make sure you keep track of which wires came from which connection. Not a big issue but you don't want to get them switched.

I googled "water not draining washer" and found a video made by Partselect.com on youtube on how to replace the water pump for a washer. So, I went to their website and punched in the model number of the washer and found the water pump I needed in stock. It said it takes an average of 1.8 days for delivery. I ordered it on a Sunday and by Tuesday I had the part delivered to my front door. That night after work, I went down to the washer which I already had sitting face down on the floor with the back peeled off and the pump out from the weekend so I could compare how it looked with the online pictures. The new part came already mounted on a new bracket so it was just a matter of installing the bracket and hooking up the intake and output hoses. In order to make my job easier in the tight space, I removed the drain hose from the bottom of the wash basin by squeezing the pressure clamp with a large pair of adjustable pliers. I then installed the other end of the drain hose to the pump itself. I then hooked out the end of the output hose to the other part of the pump that pumps out the water to the sink. I first removed the clamp on the back of the washer that held the output hose to the back of the washer. That gave me more leverage to move the pump around for the installation. Once both hoses were clamped onto the pump, I used a ratchet socket wrench to install the two bracket bolts directly onto the base of the inside of the washer in the same holes using the same bolts as the old pump. Once that was tightly installed, I Hooked the other ends of the two hoses to the bottom of the wash basin and to the back of the washer respectively. FInally, I connected the ends of the two wires into the clips on the pump in the same order as the original pump. One white one black. Finally I screwed in all the short sheet metal screws that held the back washing machine cover on. It was about 12 screws. I then installed the drain hose with the original bracket to the back of the washer. Satisfied that everything was installed tightly, I stood the washer up and then hooked the water hoses back up to the faucets and tightened them snugly with the large adjustable wrench to ensure it did not leak. I plugged the washer back in, hooked the drain hose to the sink and then filled the basin up partially. Moved the control to the drain mode, and the water came out wonderfully. Note, when the pump was broken, I was able to drain most of the water from the wash basin by lowering the drain hose the a bucket on the floor and letting gravity do the work of draining it. I had to fill the bucket several times and dump it into the sink, before I was able to drain all the water out and then lay the washer face down on the floor to remove the back of the washer. Thanks for the part and quick delivery. I saved a lot of money on repairs by doing it myself.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.

Easiest thing I ever did on the computer. U tube helped me diagnose the problem and how to remove the old pump and install the new. Parts Select menu was easy to navigate and had a picture of the pump I needed. The cost was affordable and I got the satisfaction of making the repair myself.

Take off front. Take off top. Pull off agitator. Pull off agitator coupler, after removing bolt holding in place. Attempt to remove hub nut, no joy. Wound up cutting the nut with a Dremel tool and chiseling the nut off. Closer inspection revealed a bad transmission. Due to the cost of the transmission, we will continue to use the machine until it completely fails.

I used the "belt" technique to remove the agitator. It was difficult at first to remove but after a few tugs on the belts that were looped under the plastic bottom, the agitator came up. Then I unscrewed the bolt holding the coupler. The agitator coupler kit purchased from PartSelect came with a new screw so I replaced the old coupler with the new one and fitted the new screw in it's place. I put the agitator dasher back on and then it worked perfectly.

Removed the front of the washer, screwdriver used. Disconnected the electrical wires from the pump. Removed the two bolts from the water pump bracket, socket wrench used. Disconnected the pump to exterior drain hose, plumbers wrench used to loosen tension clips. Drained all the water out of the washer tub, not easy not very neat. Disconnected the washer tub to water pump drain hose. Removed debris that was in the hose. Then connect the hoses to the new pump, bolted the bracket back in place, put the front of the washer back on.

Removed front cover, disconnected wires and hoses, reversed process

took the two screws that holds the instrument selections off retreived the directions from inside this panel and followed directions step by step and removed the spline that makes the machine agitate, seen that the inside of the spline was smooth, ordered part and reversed operation in putting it back together.
p.s. make sure the refill shutoff hose is connected as we had forgot to do this and we ran water on the floor, had to take back apart and re-connect thehose .

ordering the part and fixing it myself with my sons help saved me a repair bill which I am sure would have cost me at least $75.00 more.

I followed previous parts select customers advice exactly, of replacing the dampening straps, and it worked perfectly. Thanks-A-Million!

replaces as per video. Very helpful

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.