WNSE5260D1WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

pulled front panel off it snaps in but had to get off. then remove two bolts holding too down. moved top around to get to straps. front to easy 5/16 deep socket aND rather .the other end has 1/4 socket back hard to get too not bad. took 30 minutes. didn't fix problem. on bottom of motor looks like it had rubber bumpers but none there didn't find any on parts list. went to parts house auto got two rubber freeze plugs installed them in hole on bottom of motor that stopped the noise and rube moves very little now. also install new belt . install it put it on motor then on part of pulley then roll pull while keeping belt on motor roll pulley around till belt on all the way then roll pull more pushing on belt on motor till belt fit in all groves then roll it couple more times it will line groves up on pull. install top back down then snap front panel it your done.

Watch the videos you might be a little skeptical at first. I watched the videos about 8-10 times before I bought the part so I took my part out first then got back on you tube watched a few more videos and got on parts select website found the part matched it up to what I pulled out of my washer ordered it got to me in a weeks time put it in and working like new again cost about 14.00 shipping and part together saved about 200.00 per my estimate I had to fix it.

My rubber start button gave out after 10+ years...kept getting stuck inward and was unreliable. I thought about buying a new washer but my old one still works fine and the new ones are super expensive! My wife and I only do a couple of loads per week so decided to try to fix it ourselves.

Ordered a new one from this site. Was about $20.00 for the new button, but I have not spent a dime in over 10 years! I just cannot believe how easy it is to find the part and place an order. All you really need to do is to find the tag on the washer with the model number. What a fantastic business and website!

The install was easy...pulled out the old one using a pair of needle nose pliers (still useable in an emergency) and installed the new one. I was smart enough to coat the new one with a little Vaseline and it slipped (wiggled) right into place. For the record, the washer works just fine without the button too.

Glad I tried to fix it. Would have cost me a couple hundred bucks for a professional repair.

Good work ! PERFECT!

I watched the video and disassembled the machine pretty much the way the video showed. There were a few differences but nothing big. The noise sounded like a dry bearing but wasn't sure where it was. Read the responses and it said it was the tub bearing washer. It made some sense if it was metal on metal. It was a dry bearing (should have listened to my common sense, but these guys know more than I do when it comes to washer repair) on the transmission that had been ruined because of a leaky tub seal, which I also replaced. The transmission was not available at the time of repair (but is now) but that kind of investment may be better in a new unit. There is a video on YouTube that shows you how to replace the bearing, BUT it requires someone with some mechanical knowledge. I'll try it later in the year and if it doesn't work we'll have to purchase a new unit.

Wife put on the new part and she used a pair of plires and it was a little difficult to get her hand in the tiny spot but she put it on in less than 15 minuets and it is working great.

(As I am an older female, I used YouTube to review the repair before trying it. YouTube scared me, the actual repair was much easier) I removed the agitator from the washer which revealed the agitator assembly held in place by a bolt. After removing the bolt, the assembly was lifted off the spindle. I cleaned the grime off the agitator, the spindle and the bottom of the washer basket. New agitator assembly was placed onto the spindle and pushed down. There was a distinctive click when it slid into place. I replaced the bolt to the top of the assembly. tightened it down, then slid the agitator over the assembly, matching grooves to teeth until that also slid into place with a click. It honestly took me longer to clean the grime than to change the part. Agitator is working perfectly

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.

Removed knobs ,removed screws on back plate , removed. Back plate ,played plate on top of washer after putting a towel down to keep scratching, disconecte wireing replaced both boards and reverse instructions. Pushed button and it started right up.vidio was very helpful .

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

I had to insert a broom stick to keep the drive pulley from rotating as I hammered the tub nut loose.

2nd tip, my washer has the standard agitator with the glued on cap; it was unclear if I needed to remove it; you should clarify that this is not necessary, that one must only pop up the entire agitator; I used a shipping strap looped under the agitator and over a 2x4 across the top of the frame, tightening until the tub was raised a bit and then a gentle pop down on the tub and the agitator easily popped off.

Could not complete repair. The pulsator was rusted on the shaft, used wd 40, finally pried off the shaft. The hub nut was so corroded on the shaft I could not remove it. Reassembled the Machine.

Reading all the other stories helped me get started. One tip I want to share is when removing the old coupler, I held on to a pulley puller by hand. I hooked the jaws underneath; while I pulled up on it, I would tap with a hammer on either side of the old coupler. This gave me the leverage needed to make it pop right off.

This was a easy job for the do it your selfer. I had no problem the part ,it was like the same one I took off. Now I know where to come for parts . It was perfect . Thanks again

I bought 3 parts for I didn't know what I need so I listen to the companies video twice.
I popped off the agitator which was easy. then had a little trouble with getting the screw/nut out it was rusty. Finally got that off then I worked backwards and I found I didn't need all the parts which I sent back with no problems. My machine works as good as new ,it has stopped making noise. I am really proud I did this by myself and didn't need my husbands help,

I also spent less than 12.00 to fix and a new one is over 600.00.

Thank You
Christine brooks