GTW540ASP2WS General Electric Washer - Instructions

Replacement was extremely easy:
1. Shutoff Water Valves
2. Removed hoses from Washer
3. Removed two screws to get control unit off.
4. Removed wires to valve assembly.
5. Removed Screw holding assembly in place.
6. Removed temp sensor from assembly.
7. Unit came right out and reversed the process for replacement Unit.
8. Very easy...

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

There's two nuts on the back of the washer holding the metal backplate. I used my 11-1 Klein screwdriver. Once you get the screws out lift the backplate slightly and pull the whole top assembly out of it's spot and lean it forward onto top of the washer.

Take pictures of where the wires go so you can remember for later.

Disconnect the two wires and remove the two screws holding the metal plate. Same size nuts driver as the other screws.

Remove the sensor by just wiggling it out.
Slide the intake assemby out of it's spot.
Slide the new one in.
Then just do everything you did in reverse.

Takes 10 minutes. Super easy.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.

Installing the inlet value was very easy the only thing was a very small "O" ring wasn't supplied with the value, so I removed the one on the leaking value. Not care must be taken not to damage the used "O"
The washer is running with no leaks
Thank you, for, saving me hundreds of dollars

IF you do the same repair, SAVE THE LITTLE O-RING that is inside the old part where the temperature probe stick in (If that is indeed what it is). It's chrome in color. New part does NOT come with that O-ring

I contacted parts select and entered washer information and asked them if they thought they would now what the problem was and and they responded with a answer and also a list of two parts that they thought might take care of the problem. I ordered the parts,looked on u tube to see how to change them and replaced both parts .I think the clutch was good but the drive belt was stretched and needed replaced.Know it works great.

You have to take the top off of the washer and the four suspension rods are at each corner. Fairly simple removal and installation of the rods. A quick you tube search is all it took. Easy peasy.

Not knowing for sure how to fit it I went to youtube for help watched a few videos and tested different things until I hit the right one .Moms washer is fixed.replaced lid lock,motherboard and pump I'm sure I don't need all those parts because when I found the code for the lid lock it started working

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.

Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.

Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.

Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.

Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.

Did more research...

Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.

Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.

While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.

While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.

Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)

Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.

Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.

Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours

Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.

Took the belt cover and then replaced the pump. Did a dry run and everything was fine.

Replaced water pump. Washer now works as new.
Wife is now happy!