WMSE4190A0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

I was going to replace the washer. .. I am a cabinet maker and pretty good at what I do. I have to admit before seeing the video I was out of my comfort zone with this repair. I was shown not only the part needed and that you folks had the part in your inventory on hand. I was pleased to see how inexpensive it was $7.40. I had it shipped for $8.70. I ordered online at 2 pm. the part arrived the next day at 1 pm. AMAZING!. I spent ten minutes making the repair. The machine is now back to it's like new self! Regards, MichaelAndrews.biz

followed the video you provided and it was easy!

I put the nob on the post, one side is flat the rest of the lever on the dryer is round. So I matched up the lever with he inside of the new knob and slid it on . The dryer works perfectly. I ordered it on May 5 th and the nob arrived May 15 th. I guess Georgia is a long way from Arizona. But the part fit perfectly and I am happy. Thankyou.

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

At first the knob seemed like it would not fit on, but after I sprayed it with WD-40 oil, it slipped with a gentle, steady push

Just push knob on less than 4 seconds

took the two screws that holds the instrument selections off retreived the directions from inside this panel and followed directions step by step and removed the spline that makes the machine agitate, seen that the inside of the spline was smooth, ordered part and reversed operation in putting it back together.
p.s. make sure the refill shutoff hose is connected as we had forgot to do this and we ran water on the floor, had to take back apart and re-connect thehose .

ordering the part and fixing it myself with my sons help saved me a repair bill which I am sure would have cost me at least $75.00 more.

Removed front cover, disconnected wires and hoses, reversed process

Removed the screws, pulled out the tall skinny thing that rotates, pulled out the broken part, ordered the new one, replaced it, (you have to push down until it snaps into place) Put everything back together and had clean laundry within 45 minutes. Anyone can replace this part.

I used the "belt" technique to remove the agitator. It was difficult at first to remove but after a few tugs on the belts that were looped under the plastic bottom, the agitator came up. Then I unscrewed the bolt holding the coupler. The agitator coupler kit purchased from PartSelect came with a new screw so I replaced the old coupler with the new one and fitted the new screw in it's place. I put the agitator dasher back on and then it worked perfectly.

Got a new part in the Agitator Coupling Kit, as the existing part was worm down. Simply removed and inserted the plastic bottom, used a mallet to pound it down and it was finished. By checking a video, I felt comfortable in doing the repair myself. A greater feelings was knowing I didn't have to go out and buy a new clothes washer. Thanks PartSelect for having the right part to complete this project.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

Watched the video from your web site and followed the instructions. Didn't need to remove the console on my model.