GTW685BPL2DG General Electric Washer - Instructions
Jump to:
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
- Customer:
- Ricky from KRUM, TX
- Parts Used:
- WH12X27614
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not spin
Took 4 screws out of back of control panel. Tested old capacitor. Installed new one. Put back on tested spin cycle everything is doing great
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- terry from MILLINGTON, TN
- Parts Used:
- WH03X30517
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
washed well but would not shift out of spin cycle
easiest repair I have ever made. No problems and was surprised as to how fast and easy it was to repair. I did not need two of steps the instructions stated I had to do. best purchase I have ever made.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jan from POMPANO BEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WH16X26911, WH16X26910
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
washer performed all functions, except spin
6y/o washer.
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.
Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.
Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.
Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.
Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.
Did more research...
Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.
Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.
While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.
While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.
Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)
Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.
Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.
Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours
Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)
First checked lid switch. It turns out that the connector was disconnected. Probably became disconnected after the shaking from an unbalanced load. Reconnected and worked for three loads, then failed to spin again.
Purchased switch kit, belt and mode shifter, but held off the replacement. Parts select shared the diagnostic sheet. You can find yours inside the washer in a Ziploc bag. Tilt washer back and look underneath.
Went through diagnostic codes and all checked out fine. Did a fault reset. Worked again for three loads then failed to spin. GE sent a tech ($109 for service call). His diagnosis read-out showed rods/springs needed replacement. Parts arrived in three days and took about 45 minutes to r&r (I marked the new ones with a marker when unpacking to avoid confusion). USE VISE GRIPS AND.INSTALL FROM THE TOP. DO THE REAR.ONES FIRST Afterward, three loads done fourth load no spin.
Replaced lid switch with the kit. Again 3 loads fine, 4th load spin fail.
Note; each unplug & replug in resets the error codes, which may explain the 3 load temporary fix.
Did more research...
Finally, replaced old lid switch with lid switch kit (old switch was functioning fine, but I had the kit, so replaced it, in the event it was throwing an error code. Again 3 loads fine, 4th failed to spin.
Tilted washer back 45° for bottom access. Removed old belt. Belt and pulleys were loaded with grease/oil. Pulled both pulleys and scoured them. Replaced mode shifter. Note; old belt was about 3/4" larger diameter than new belt. Part#s matched, so it was the correct belt. Obviously the old belt was very worn. Oil/grease may be a combination of two things 1-slight leak from transmission seal, without any puddles on the floor and 2- the heat from the worn belt degrading the petroleum within.
While under the washer, removed the pump and hoses, checking for obstructions in the hoses and impeller. None found.
While underneath I grabbed the tech sheet from inside wall.
Checked the capacitance of the capacitor. Spec on the capacitor is 60 +/-5%. Mine tested at 61.1...within specs. (Be sure to discharge capacitor safely first!)
Reassembled the machine. Working fine through fifteen loads so far.
Final note. YouTube videos for all these steps online.
Conclusions; mechanically easy repair for DIYer. Probable causes...Belt worn, mode shifter and rods/springs worn out.
Total cost ~$200 parts + $109 for GE tech call.
Labor ~3 hours, but only because of so many disassembly re-assembly attempts at repair. Had it all been done at one time, total time would've been <1.5 hours
Thanks parts select and Barb (you're awesome)
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Elizabeth from Columbus, OH
- Parts Used:
- WH23X28418
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Washer would not empty when it hot drain cycle
Once I determined it was the drain pump, (by taking off the drain hose and letting it empty by gravity, then running the spin cycle which worked ok) I ordered the part, got confirmation from PartSelect.com that it would fit my washer. I removed the old pump taking out the 6 screws needed to hold it and the cover in place and unplugged the electric connector. I installed the new pump from PartSelect.com using the same cover and 6 screws and electric connector. I reconnected the drain hose and the washer has worked perfectly since then!
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- James from Oxford, GA
- Parts Used:
- WH23X28418
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Washer would not drain
Unpluged the washer first got as much water out of the drum as possible the leaned the washer over forward and let it rest against something removed hose clamp from pump side and removed the drain hose from pump remove plastic cover and unplug pump push tab and pull remove bolts from pump remove pump install all components in reverse be sure to replace pump to drum seal as well
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Nancy from ALTON, IL
- Parts Used:
- WH01X24180
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Belt frayed tangled stopped spinning
Tilted washer got underneath took off plastic shroud 3 nut head bolt rotated belt onto pulleys easy peas when ya buy the part from this site :) perfect match no assy issues
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Jim from MUKWONAGO, WI
- Parts Used:
- WH23X28418
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Washing machine would not drain
I replaced the Pump Drain assembly. It was very easy. Removed 3 bolts and disconnected the electrical wire harness and put new one on. It works great.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Ronald from Chickasha, OK
- Parts Used:
- WH23X28418
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Washer wouldn’t drain
Remove old pump install new one. Three bolts and an electrical connection
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Heath from BOILING SPGS, SC
- Parts Used:
- WH01X24180
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Socket set
Noisy
Took bottom cover off think three bolts
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
- Customer:
- Debbie from Kalispell, MT
- Parts Used:
- WH43X31240
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The washer agitator/auger broke off of the base during a wash cycle. The small plastic clips broke off the auger so it couldn't be put back on the base.
The agitator/auger was easy to replace - it just snapped into place. We watched a YouTube to make sure to lock it into the counter clockwise direction.
This saved lots of time and the cost of a repair person to come.
This saved lots of time and the cost of a repair person to come.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!