WCCD2050H0WC General Electric Washer - Instructions

The after school director told me of the washing machine flooding. It took only a bit to find the hose that was leaking--a little longer to figure out where it went. It was the bleach line to the drum from the little bowl under the lid. It had pulled off.

I noticed that three of the four tub dampening straps (little rubber bungees) were broken. PartsSelect had a good exploded view of the washer that helped me locate the correct part and order it. They were shipped quickly.

Start with the machine empty of water and unplugged.

The front of the washer pops off (most have a removable top but this GE did the front instead). This exposes two screws to remove in order to lift and remove the top, exposing the tub. While you lift the lid, you have to remove the bleach line from the pocket at the front of the machine. It helped to unplug the machine and remove the lid switch to make access easier. It has two screws holding the assembly to the lid.

The straps are on the four corners of the tub, attached by hex-head screws. The two in the back aren't as easy to access. A stubby nutdriver would have helped for the screws that were upside down holding the straps to the frame. The straps were replaced and all the parts put back.

The washer is quieter and shakes much less. It was ready for the Christmas dinner washing later in the week.

Blowing hard into the drain hose would force the water off the impeller and allow the pump to reach proper speed to correctly drain. Start by unplugging the machine. To replace the pump, I simply removed the front cover of the washer. There are 2 clips to release along the top of the cover, then carefully pry forward and then lift it off the bottom clips. There are two wires which were a bit stubborn to remove. Carefully wiggle and pull with pliers, and be sure to note which one goes where. There were 2 bolts to attach the pump to the machine, which I removed using a 1/4" drive socket set, the size of the bolt head escapes me - on the small side anyhow. Also two squeeze clamps holding 2 hoses, which were easily removed using pliers. Pull the hoses and watch a pint to a quart of water dump out on the floor. Reverse the process to install. The hoses are tucked back in there, so you may want a flashlight to make sure you get the clamps back on correctly. Replace the front cover, and dont forget to plug the machine back in and you are ready to rock.

Removed the old one and installed the new pump, by removing the front cover and disconnect everything.

Use flat head screw driver to push in clips that hold on front panel.
use plyers to remove hose clamps on motor and remove hoses.
use nut driver and remove two screws holding bracket in place. disconnect two wire plugs.
Install motor and work above in reverse.
very simple 15min job at most.

First I found out on the web how to open the washer's front cover.
For the strap in the front, it's relatively easy to replace a strep if your hands are somewhat flexible.
For the one in the back, I also needed to open the top dial panel, in order to lift the main lid connected to it, in order to then be able to reach one of the screws of the back strap. the other one of its screws I was able to reach from the front with a ratchet and extension from the front. Arms do get heavy from time to time, but overall it was manageable.

I purchased the part, watched the video that was embedded in the email I received, folllowed the instructions and was able to wash my laundry. It could not have been any easier unless the the part caem already installed. Thank you.

The first thought regarding the light rumble during the spin cycle is that the bearing was going bad. Many of the other inputs on replacing the bearing included the problem with removal of the Hub Nut. Only one article noted a set of assembly instruction for the washer is clipped onto the upper rear panel behind the control knobs, but I did not see this comment until later. Not being sure where to start with diassembling the washer, I began by taking off the control panel and to my pleasant surprise I found a neatly folded set of detailed instructions. Following the instructions, I proceeded to quickly disassemble the washer until I got to the HUB NUT. The Hub Nut is an aluminum, 1 -11/16 inch, left hand threaded problem. My tool selection is somewhat limited, so after unsuccessfully attaching it with grippers and vice grips, supported with the liberal aid of a rubber mallet and plenty of WD40, I went looking for something with which I could a better grip on the hub nut. The grippers and vice grips would slide a bit when hit with the mallet. Also since the space is very restricted, a large wrench could not be used. I located a 9-inch pipe wrench, and with the rubber mallet the Hub Nut finally loosened after just a few hits. I replaced the old bearing which appeared to be in fair condition. While replacing the bearing has not solved my noise problem, I thought that my experience with the pipe wrench benefit someone else in their efforts to get the hub nut off without using a chisel.

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

Watched the video, read installation instructions.
Replaced four broken dampening straps, washer is quiet and all is good.

removed back off washer, disconnected pump from washer tub, remove old pump in about 5 min, then installed new pump in less than 5 min. washer is working just fine wife thank me it was about 2 wks since the washer was down.

Very easy with your great instructions in my email. took the wires off,took the hoses off,then the two bolts,put the new one on and reasembled the hoeses wires and bolts. put the front back on and that was that. Your company is great thanks for all your help.If I ever need help again with any off my appliances i will call on you,agin thank you very much. Frank!

I googled "water not draining washer" and found a video made by Partselect.com on youtube on how to replace the water pump for a washer. So, I went to their website and punched in the model number of the washer and found the water pump I needed in stock. It said it takes an average of 1.8 days for delivery. I ordered it on a Sunday and by Tuesday I had the part delivered to my front door. That night after work, I went down to the washer which I already had sitting face down on the floor with the back peeled off and the pump out from the weekend so I could compare how it looked with the online pictures. The new part came already mounted on a new bracket so it was just a matter of installing the bracket and hooking up the intake and output hoses. In order to make my job easier in the tight space, I removed the drain hose from the bottom of the wash basin by squeezing the pressure clamp with a large pair of adjustable pliers. I then installed the other end of the drain hose to the pump itself. I then hooked out the end of the output hose to the other part of the pump that pumps out the water to the sink. I first removed the clamp on the back of the washer that held the output hose to the back of the washer. That gave me more leverage to move the pump around for the installation. Once both hoses were clamped onto the pump, I used a ratchet socket wrench to install the two bracket bolts directly onto the base of the inside of the washer in the same holes using the same bolts as the old pump. Once that was tightly installed, I Hooked the other ends of the two hoses to the bottom of the wash basin and to the back of the washer respectively. FInally, I connected the ends of the two wires into the clips on the pump in the same order as the original pump. One white one black. Finally I screwed in all the short sheet metal screws that held the back washing machine cover on. It was about 12 screws. I then installed the drain hose with the original bracket to the back of the washer. Satisfied that everything was installed tightly, I stood the washer up and then hooked the water hoses back up to the faucets and tightened them snugly with the large adjustable wrench to ensure it did not leak. I plugged the washer back in, hooked the drain hose to the sink and then filled the basin up partially. Moved the control to the drain mode, and the water came out wonderfully. Note, when the pump was broken, I was able to drain most of the water from the wash basin by lowering the drain hose the a bucket on the floor and letting gravity do the work of draining it. I had to fill the bucket several times and dump it into the sink, before I was able to drain all the water out and then lay the washer face down on the floor to remove the back of the washer. Thanks for the part and quick delivery. I saved a lot of money on repairs by doing it myself.

front back and top have to come off, but contrary to 'youtube' instructions, 'nothing' has to be disconnected, if the washer is pulled away from the wall and power unplugged things can be unscrewed and pushed back enough to pull the inner tub out and get to the seal without disconnecting water lines wires or anything else.. the main shaft nut is aluminum and the shaft is 'castellated' so alittle penetrating oil on it and a short 10" pipe wrench in conjunction with a 2lb sledge busted it loose easy enough so i didnt need to buy a spanner .. the seal was easy to get out with a couple of screwdrivers wedged in the sides .. the old split ring crumbled upon removal also so get one of those .. i lucked out on the washer that goes with it and mine was still usable but if it was rusted any more than it was i wouldve needed that also .. so good idea to get the 3 items if your doing the seal - seal, split ring, and washer - another thing, i cleaned everything up good, knocked everything off with a brass brush, polished the shaft seal area with some 600 grit and then lubed the seal with silicone grease thinking it might be hard to get in .. it wasnt .. and it leaked slightly until i did several loads .. in hindsight it would be better to 'lightly' coat the outer edge of the seal that mates to the tub with a good silicone gasket maker, the inner lips with the grease would be fine ... so thats about how it went, parts came quick and i had it all fixed up in a couple of hours .. cleaning things as i went probably took longer than the wrenching ..

my son repaired it. I was told that I had to by the whole thing as you could not get parts. Thank you for the parts.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!