GTW335ASN0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Cleaned pulleys. Replaced worn belt.

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.

I ordered a drive belt later to go with this repair which I wish I had done when I ordered the speed sensor and saved shipping. I think that was the real culprit. I had get customer service to help me with the part number because it wasn't listed on the parts list.

I set washer to drain and spin empty to get as much water out as possible. Tilted washer on its side on top of two thick cushions so was about a 15 degree angle off the floor and didn't spill leftover water in the drum.
I took the protective cover off using socket wrench for the 3 bolts. There was belt shreds all over the bottom. Took off smaller drive wheel with socket wrench in order to get to speed sensor. Speed sensor is connected on the motor frame. I used two small flathead screwdrivers in the slots to unsnap the old part. Cleaned off belt debris. Connected the new speed sensor wires first then should click into place. Put drive wheel back on. Put new belt on small drive wheel and lined up grooves. Note that the new drive belt will be smaller than the old one. I found the easiest way to get the new belt on is to hold it on the small wheel and start wrapping the belt on one side of the large wheel and rotating the wheels which is going to turn the drum. Sort of how you would rechain a bike which shows my age!
Put protective cover back on.

The last thing I did was since I had access to the bottom of the drum was to clean out the pressure line port which can lead to spin issues. It is about half an arms length up the side of drum above the drain hose. Its a small gray tubing attached to the drum. Pull the tubing off and it reveals a little port that can get clogged. Use your1/16th drill bit and put in the port about an inch to inch and half and clear out the port. Re-attach the hose firmly.

Machine working as good as new and clothes are almost bone dry now!

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

My son in law did it for me

Locked garage door.
Removed hoses after shutting off water.
Removed 4 10mm bolts and removed old valve and replaced.
Reverse the process.
Total time about 5 minutes.
Drank beer and then declared to wife after 30 minutes that the problem was solved.

First thing is to download and print the programming instructions for the new control board. The instructions for downloading come with the control board. The control board fits multiple models and has to be programmed for your particular model. Unplug the washer and pull it out enough to work from the back. Remove the main control knob by pulling it off. At the top back use the nut driver and remove the 4 screws holding the metal cover. There’s a ground wire attached to the inside of the panel that doesn’t have to be removed. Let the metal cover dangle. Remove the two screws that hold the top control panel. They are located at the ends of the control panel. Slide the main control panel towards the back of the washer above 1/2” and lift it up and roll towards the front of the washer which puts the main control board in a position that allows removal. Unplug all of the connectors. Remove the 3 or 4 screws holding the plastic board stiffener, unsnap the two posts holding it to the control board and remove it. Remove the main control board. Compare the old and new board. If they match install the new board in the reverse order of removal. After reassembly and putting the washer back in place, plug it in and follow the programming instructions. My replacement of the control board went very well except the first new control board didn’t work. There was one complete zone that didn’t function. I called Parts Select and they sent me another control board which worked and the refunded the cost of the defective board but I was out some shipping expense.

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

one bolt off pulled agitator one bolt on

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.

I just took old one out an put new one in

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

My son installed the new parts.