VBSR3100DW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Two visits by ge repair techs failed to clearly identify the problem. After observing many fill ups, I decided the problem was an intermittant failure of the pressure fill switch. Ge wanted $80 for the service call plus $200 to replace switch, and recommended we buy a new washer for about $400! For $ 32 partselect shipped a new ge pressure switch in about 3 days! Openning up the top control panel required removing 4 sheet metal screws with 6 point star heads. The t-15/t-20 star driver was available at ace hardware for under $2. Removing the old pressure switch and installing the new switch was described in the ge service sheet that came with the washer (very easy). I installed the part and solved the problem; the machine runs like new!

Biggest problem was getting old hub nut off. I had to remove it in pieces because it was corroded so bad.

Once hub nut was off it was a breeze to replace the parts after cleaning off the threads and shaft.

Reassembled in reverse order.. and ran.

I have to give accolades to PartSelect.. their customer service is second to none. i ordered the parts just before the Christmas holiday and they shipped them to my door in under 24 hours at no extra charge to see that I got them on time...
THANKS!.. It sure helped.

Would I do business here again.. YEP!

I will recommend you to others.

Thanks.

Popped the front off the washer by placing a towel under the screwdriver to prevent chipping the paint. Had to spent almost 45 minutes soaking up water that had leaked from pump. Must have been leaking for some time before enough leaked under washer and became visible, because there was a lot of rust build up. (1).Removed old pump by first un-pluging washer and them removing (2) connecting wires from pump. (3).Next use nut driver to loosen flex hose from washer. (not from pump). Loosen spring clamp from discharge hose , and slide up. (4) Using nut driver I removed (2) hex screws that held pump to frame, then removed pump and motor assembly. (5). Mopped up water with large (old) bath towels (6). Used hair dryer to dry area. (7). Used wire brush to brush away surface rust. then used small shop vacuum to remove this surface rust. (8). Used small brush to paint white rust-olem paint on rusted areas, used hair dryer again to help paint to dry, then gave it a second coat and again helped it dry. (9). I then removed flex hose from old pump assembly, checked it for cracks and finding none I attached it to new pump with existing spring clamp. (10). I then put pump assembly back inside washer, but did not attach with hex screws yet. (11). Re-attached the drain hose by sliding the spring clamp back down, making sure it is around the hose and discharge spout. (12). Reattach the flex hose to washer discharge spout. (13). Screw new pump and motor assembly unto newly painted frame. (14). Re-attach (2) wires to pump and motor assembly. (15). Plug washer back in and try filling it with some water, letting it go into the drain cycle to check for leaks. NOTE: You don't have to go through and entire wash cycle. Just use the dial to put some water in then move it to drain and /or spin to get the new pump and motor assembly going. I did this a couple of times and then did an entire load of clothes to ensure there were no leaks. After I was sure there were no leaks, I simply popped the front panel back on. My part cost a total of $64.00 including shipping, and it took me about 1 hour of my time. I checked with my local GE dealer and his cost would have been $98.00 for the part, and $85.00 for labor for a total of $183.00. I AM VERY HAPPY. Oh bye the way I had my part within 3 days of the order and that was with regular shipping. I will always use Parts Select from now on.

Remove aggitator, disconect 4 support straps, pry off clips/ latches on top of drum. Remove small bolt that holds on the small plastic unit unto trans.
That will give you access to the large bolt that holds the hub in place. This nut is on tight use a pipe wrench and adjustable wrench and TURN CLOCKWISE TO REMOVE - lock for direction on nut.
Remove the bin gently and turn over to remove the small bolts that hold the hub in place.
Installation is reverse of removal.

I had to take the washer outside since there was no room to work on it in the laundry room. The extra space allowed me to spread out the parts, use the garden hose to clean and have light enough to take digital pics of the wiring before I disconnected them to remove the upper panel.

Removing the upper retaining ring for the tub was simple with only 4 screws. The agitator pulled right up and out. The nut cover/agitator anchor removed easily with one bolt.

The tough part was the inner tub base hub nut that I could not get off. Another user had commented on how they had to chisel the nut off and that was the best advice. I used my air chisel on either side of the nut and it was pretty quick to get off - within 3 min. If I hadn't read that I wouldn't have ordered another nut to replace the one I chiseled off.

The diagrams and repair stories really made the difference. Cleaning and reassembling was done within about an hour - cleaning the 11 years of soap scum at least an hour total before and after replacing the parts.

Bought all of the parts to remedy this. It ended up being the top transmission seal/bearing which is not a replaceable part. I could see the shaft moving side to side. But the parts diagrams are not detailed enough to show that when assembled.

She led a good life.

My new side loader is SO MUCH BETTER AND INSANELY EFFICIENT. I highly recommend making the change if you need a transmission..

The parts were here in 3 days and the repair went very quickly .Quality item would do business again.

My husband was unavailable and already overloaded, so I took a screw driver and removed the front cover of the washer. After I discovered where the leak was coming from, I used a screw driver to remove one end of the hose and pliers to remove the other end. I went online, found the part and ordered it. It came in surprisingly fast. My husband put it back in about 5 minutes.

Removed the screws for the control panel and replaced the load switch and valve body in about 20 minutes. Simple fix and it's working perfectly!

took it appart and found that the suspension rod was broken. went on line an ordered the parts.
The parts arrived 3 days later. Installed the parts and the washing machine was working within a half hour.

replaced Tub dampeners Straps.

I had to remove top control panel and flip it over the back and out of the way, but did not have to unplug anything. I then had to remove front and top panels in order to remove the agitator and eventually the tub assembly itself. Once the tub assembly was removed, I had to turn it upside down to remove the transmissing and brake assembly as well as the mounting bracket. The entire removal process took about an hour and a half. The reassembly took less than an hour. The most difficult part was removing the 1 11/16 nut that ties the agitator to the tramsmission through the tub. It took 3 of us to hold the tub in place so that one of us could use the 3/4 drive ratchet and extension to loosen the nut. We did the same thing during the reassembly. All together there ware quite a few parts removed and a fair amounte of different screws. In order to perform this job, you must have a decent tool set and the ability to diagnose each step of the process, but it's not very difficult otherwise.

Removed front cover(use screwdriver)clips on top of cover under lid
Disconnected power from wall
Disconnected wires to motor 1 screw/unplug for motor
Uncwrewed clamp on drain hose
Removed top lifts off easliy
With help released Washing drum assy from hangers
Slid back and Tilted drum assy outwards from drum opening out to the front of machine
Pulled agatator up and off of hub
Remove one bolt from hub 1/4 " rachet w 3/8" socket
Pull off cap
Removed Locking nut(couterclockwise)nut is soft metal used good vice grips firmly locked on nut
Removed inner washing drum
Turned over Entire Assy (motor up)
Removed belt (slid off)
Removed 4 blots from Motor/Tranny assy to Plastic outer drum
Lifted off Motor/Tranny assy and pulled tranny out
Reaasemble in reverse order witht the exception of replacing the hub seal(inside)Outer drum assy.
There were service instruction under the front control panel.

First I removed the old part (2 screws)
Pulled off 4 wires (maybe the wrong word, I'm not a professional!
Put the new part in-turned the water on and had a stream of HOT water-yay
I had been putting this off because no one in my family had noticed (except me) and with my husband out of work it seemed like a low priority, but when my daughters came home for Christmas, they said "There's no hot water in the washing machine" so I took the plunge--I cannot believe I waited that long!
It literally took me seven minutes!

After reading how others have done this and how easy it was, I decided to give it a try. And, sure enough, it was really easy. However, one concern I had was on lifting the old agitator off from the axle using both hands. I didn't want to have the agitator come crashing into my face as I pulled up. So I put a pillow on top of the agitator.