VVSR1030HW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Ordered new pump on Sunday - replaced on Wednesday. Removed front washer panel with putty knife to release latches. Used pliers to disconnect hose clamps. Lots of paper towels to sop up water in bottom of washer and on floor. Unhooked electrical wires. Socket to remove pump. Reverse actions to replace pump. It's "plug and play"!

remove top control panel & r&r water level/pressure switch.

Watched a how to video. Pulled the agitator. Determined that the agitator coupling was worn out. Matched the old agitator coupling to new replacement one. Ordered it. Pushed the new agitator coupling onto the fitting. Secured it with the old bolt. Replaced the agitator. Repaired.

I paid over $100 several years ago to have this same repair done by an appliance repairman. I did it myself this time for less than $20. Definitely watch the installation video before you start. Remove agitator by pulling it up by its bottom flange (protect your face in case it pops off suddenly). Remove bolt holding agitator coupling onto the transmission shaft. Pull up on old coupling and remove it. Clean grooves on transmission shaft and then install new coupling over the shaft. Reinstall old bolt and the agitator following video instructions on lining up agitator on the coupling. Note: Standard Fedex Smartpost shipping took 6 days to go from Louisville, Kentucky to western North Carolina. If you're in a hurry it's worth it to pay for expedited shipping. Lots of dirty laundry piles up in a week!

I had to replace the water fill nozzle on my GE washer, and having the instruction video on the parts page is a real time-saver. It shows how to remove each part on your washer in order to access the area where the part needs to be replaced. Start to finish, about 20 minutes. Easy peasy.

Removed the knob from water level switch. Removed 4 screws holding the control panel cover on and leaned it out. Made sure the washer was unplugged and removed the three wires and removed the water level hose and the switch. Installed the new switch and hose plugged the wires back in and put things back together. Washer works fine now.

This repair was a no brainer repair. The factory replacement knob that I bought from this site comes with a new "D"-Ring. Some other aftermarket parts houses sell the knob and the "D"-Ring as seperate parts. The knob from this site already has the "D"-Ring ring installed in the knob. My "D"-ring was broken and I simply removed it with my fingers. All I had to do was properly align the new know knob with the timer shaft and press it into place. If your "D"-ring is not broken and not still inside the old knob, you will need to pull it off the shaft with a pair of pliers before pressing the new knob onto the timer shaft. Dr. "B" The Hot Rod Doc

Repair went well but there was clips to the door switch not in the video. Still was easy to work around and complete.

The front panel has to be taken off to access the washing machine pump. To do this I used a putty knife I inserted the putty knife in the slot at the top of the front panel where it meets the top of the machine to release the clip that holds the panel in place. Once the panel is off the pump is mounted to the bottom of the machine with two screws. There are also two hoses attached to the pump that need to be taken off. Before you do this you have to get as much water out of the machine as you can to minimize the amount of water that will come out when you disconnect the hoses. My recommendation is to replace the spring type hose clamps the manufacturer uses with a screw type hose clamp. These are much easier to put back on once the hoses are in place. You are not fighting the spring clamp while trying to put the hose on in a confined space. Then put the front panel back on. This may take about a half hour if you do not have too much clean up because you didn’t get enough water out of the machine.

Removed the front panel. Removed the washer top. Removed and replaced each strap. Very simple repair.

Removed the front cover with a screwdriver, by locating and slightly prying the metal clpis back to release the cover. Then I removed one screw (only one visible) from the strap that hold the top cover/lid down. With a little prying, I lifted the lid up out of the way, and suspended it with a cord. I removed the old dampener straps and replaced each one at a time with the new strap. It was not to hard to get to the screws (I have large arms), and it only took me nearly a half hour to complete the task. It would have been easier if I used two different size nutdrivers, but it was easy enough with an adjustable wrench. Then simply put everything back to together in reverse order of how I took it apart. The wife was impress that I fixed another thing around the house.

Removed the two hex head screws from the broken strap and replaced it with the new one. The other three straps were not broken but I also replaced them, again, one at a time. This made sense,since the machine was at least ten years old.

Wife put on the new part and she used a pair of plires and it was a little difficult to get her hand in the tiny spot but she put it on in less than 15 minuets and it is working great.

Surprisingly easy. I took the screws off, then pulled off the drain hose. I then inserted the new hose, and put back the screws. Amazing quick!

Could have removed debis in old pump. Kept it as a spare.
Replacement was simple , (two nuts) & (2 Lg. Hose Clamps) + two wires.
Dealer wanted $168.00 Labor + $67.00 for part!.