WMCD2050HW General Electric Washer - Instructions

It was almost a complete tear down. Most difficult part was discivering how to remove the front panel. Slip a putty knife between the top and front covers. push and depress the spring tab on each side. The left hand nut on the hub was difficult. I had to get a neighbor to hold a large pair of pliers while I put a pipe wrench on the nut and hit it with a 2 lb. hammer in order to break it loose. Puting it back together do not forget to reconnect the level sensing hose to the level selector, I did. Machine will not perform without it. You can do it! I did.

pulled off cup on top of agataor. scrwed off nut. pulled off agatator. flipted up side down. took off agatator bell wich is on the bottom of the agator. sliped on bell. put agatator back on and scrwed on nut. dont reamber the size of the nut.sorry. put cap on and your done.

Took front panel off the washer and found the pump working but no water drained from the tub. Took the motor off the washer by removing the two 10mm screws and attaching hoses. Decided to take the motor apart and found the propeller shaft has broken off inside the pump. Ordered new motor from Partselect and replaced it. Washer is working fine now.

Open back cover and found that drain pump had a bad seal. Took it apart and bought new seal some what same size. Put everything togather and start washing clothers and wife complained that it became wost the before. When on line and found pump and price was just right to take a risk. Ordered on sunday and got ups tuesday.
Replaced pump on Sunday and leak was gone and wife was happy.

------Got chicken and beer that Sunday--------------

First I pulled off the front panel using a flat blade screwdriver to get it started. Then I could watch what happening as I tried starting the washer. When I put the dial to the Rinse Cycle and pulled the dial to start the washer, it would start to run for about 5 seconds and then stop. I tried this several times and the same thing happened. I noticed the water pump located in the front lower right hand corner was not running. It would only hum. I drained the tub by holding the wash machine drain hose into a bucket. If I held the hose down toward the floor, the water would flow freely out of the hose and into my bucket. As the bucket filled up I just raised the hose, emptied the bucket and repeated the process until the tub was empty. Sure saved time over trying to empty the tub by bailing the water out with a can. After the tub was drained I removed the two hoses from the pump and then the two mounting bolts and the pump was out. I bench checked the pump with an electric cord and it stilled just hummed. I knew for sure then the pump was bad.

I then ordered a new pump from PartsSelect.com. I entered my wash machine model number and PartsSelect gave me a picture of the replacement pump. I was a little worried that it did not look the same as my old pump but I ordered it any how. The night I got the pump I installed it in about 30 minutes. No problems, it just worked like a charm. Thank you PartsSelect.com I will definitely use you for all my appliance repairs in the future. I know there will be more.

Took front of washer off,found that all of the straps were broke ,removed two small bolts from each strap pulled plastic support from from broken strap and put it in new strap,put plastic supported end of strap in first put bolt in and mounted other end to drum,easy job just about any one with common since could do it.Got to go laundry to wash :-)

Took complete tub assembly out of washer and inspected it. Did not find an obvious cause of leak but all 8 screws on inner tub hub were loose. As both tub nut and split ring were corroded, replaced them and the outer tub seal. Did a lot of cleaning!! As I was putting the trans assy back on the outer tub, I noticed a crack around the drain spout. At 1st, it looked like it belonged there but a closer look proved it didn't. I ordered a new outer tub (which came in 2 days) and I put the whole thing back together. Reassembly was far easier than disassembly was and I learned a whole lot about washers. YouTube is a great source of information.

Took about 10 Minutes to have my washer up and running again. So easy, and I almost bought a new washer! Fixed it before my husband got home from work. Thank you PartSelect!

Originally my water level sensor was broken. When I was repairing that, I noticed that the dampening straps were broken. Replacing them was easy. The hardest part was remembering how to open the top. I just searched the internet until I found the answer. I can't remember it all right now, but the key was to slide a putty knife in between the top and the front to pop open the body.

I notice a strange noise when ever the tub would shut down from a spin cycle. When I would load clothes it seemed that the basket had to much lateral movement. I looked between the top of the frame & basket & found 2 of the dampening straps had broken. Ordered 4 of them to replace all the straps.

Replacement was easy. I popped the front cover of the machine off. Remove 2 screws which held the top down which gave easy access to the straps. The straps are held in place by 2 screws so it was a simple process of removing the screws, removing the straps from their anchors & reinstalling the screws with the new straps. Job done. Reinstall the top & front of the machine & put the wife back to work.

Took all apart.. front off,top off, took basket top off..took the basket assembley out by unhooking the four shocks. Took a picture of all wireing and fittings. Then came the most difficult. The main nut that holds the basket to the main shaft. If you do not have one of the wrenches made for that nut good luck. Between all the gunk and rusty parts around it. It would not budge. I used a pipe wrench and a 3# hammer and it wouldnt budge. It is a oppisite drive nut so it comes off in reverse as a regular one. I ordered the wrench on line to use on the new one i orderd. Had to because the nut was getting chewed up. So waiting to order the parts i needed i ground down the nut with my angle grinder.. worked well. Knowing i had to replace the main drive and bearing it wasnt that bad. Got the nut off... pulled the basket out and then the shot seal. Really looked tore up. So because of the seal leaking, the water drips down onto the main drive and thats what ruined it. Cleaned everything up really nice.. went to put the new seal in and noticed it didnt fit as tight as it should.. so i put some silicone around it and installed everything back together. Still thinking of the seal still i went ahead and finished it all and guess what. It leaked.. the seal in my opinion needs to fit over top of the plastic main bucket not just inside of it. After researching the same problem some guys said they filled the bearing seat with silicone and it helped. Others say the plastic tub needs replaced because the bearing seat is wore out.. the tub is like $70.00. The seal is $8.00. So, what to do? Buy another tub and seal and hope the seal fits in tight, or gob alot of silicone on the seal and older tank and see.. the washer new was like $600.00. Been dicontinued now. The main shaft assembley was $160.00... seal$8.00.. the tool for $15.00...misc stuff still comes out to $200.00 . Now to buy a new tub? Is it worth it or not.. we'll see

After unplugging the washer, I drained remaining water from washer tub using my Wet/Dry vac. Ordered new pump Sunday night from PartSelect, 'Standard delivery', part arrived Tuesday morning. Removal & installation took less than 20 minutes.

Reached down into the washer bowl. Fingers on each side of the agitator base. Quick jolt up agitator popped out adjustable wrench took the bolt. Off of the agitator coupling removed coupling wire, brushed the gear slots installed a new coupling with both new bolt lined up, agitator slots pump, the new agitator on after lined up with a down force quick jolt, then installed the new fabric softener, part on top of agitator

IT was so easy to replace the pump. I think the hardest part was trying to get the pliers to work right. All I had to do was unscrew two bolts, take off two pipes, get the new pump and replace the pipes and bolts. It was that easy.

Use paint scraper to release spring tabs holding front cover on.

Removed 2 screws holding lid down, and lifted up but did not remove top cover and control panel.

R/R 2 hex screws holding strap in place. If you are lucky and the broken strap is up front this is a super fast repair. Those of you with a rear strap will want to disconnect the wiring harness to the lid switch and likely remove the top panel (+ <5 mins).

Super easy and super cheap!