WHSB9000BC General Electric Washer - Instructions

Put the drain hose clip on (it will take squeezing but the hose will pass through). There will be a groove that whose width spacing is similar to the clip. Once that's on, insert hose and screw in the clip.

First I removed the screws that held the drain hose clip to the washer. Then I pulled the hose, along with the clip, completely out of the washer. I then took the old hose out of the washer clip and put the new hose in the new clip; I pushed the hose into the washing maching and tightened the hose clip to the maching with the existing screws. Seriously easy, took less than 15 minutes. And I have virtually no handyman skills at all!

Watched the video, good video. But instead of taking the bolts out first, it's easier to remove bolts last, to give support to remove the hoses.

First I took the bottom of the washer off so that I could get to the pump then I took a socket set to take the pump off. Then I put the new pump on and put the bottom of the washer back together.

I watched the video provided by your site and followed it. I removed the clothes softener part from the agitator, Got a good grip on the agitator and pulled up. It came right off. Aligned the new agitator groves and slid it into place, put the fabric softener part back on! Super easy.

I removed the agitator by simply pulling up. I then removed one bolt to get the agitator coupler off. I installed the new coupler, replaced the bolt and slid the agitator back down.

replaced them & working fine now....

Opened lid and place on agitator ... finished

After doing some troubleshooting, I found that the Air Bell was stripped inside.

First I removed the agitator by firmly pulling it straight up. Then I removed the bolt holding the air bell (agitator coupling) with a ratchet. Then came the hard part. The air bell (agitator coupling) was stuck on the shaft and would not come off. I used rope to lasso under the coupling and tied it to a 2x4 for leverage and eventually wrestled it off by using an upward jolting motion time and time again. Spraying WD-40 in the coupling seemed to help loosen it up.

Prior to installation, I cleaned the grooves of the shaft by scraping them out with a flat tip screw driver. Installed the new coupling by tapping it down with a hammer until it was seated firmly and locked it down with the new bolt. Aligned the agitator and slid it down until it latched. Done!

I ordered the part on Wednesday didn't think we would be washing any clothes until atleast Monday. The pump came on Friday! Installed it 15-25 minutes(that's taking out the old one too) . As someone stated before the only (little) problem was the spring clamps. Screw the pump in first and then put the Clamps on.

It tooke some time to figure out where the water was leaking. It was from a small hole at the lateral side of the upper third of the drain inlet tube. Removing the hose was easy. Attaching it to the tub with a hose clamp was easy, but attaching the lower end to the pump motor was quite difficult because the spring clamp that had come with the washer was difficult to manipulate. I had to replace it with a band hose clamp.

By the way, the hole in the hose had been caused by rubbing the hose against the drain pipe from the motor to the sink.

The repair went just like the video! Easier than I would've hoped.

Popped the lid and activated the lid switch. Agitator danced around but the tub not moving. Agitator was un-snapped so no issue getting it out. Forgot to shut the timer down. By the time I came back with container's for wet laundry the pump emptied the water. Found this web site for parts and liked what I saw on the help. The video was a nice overview but can forget about trying to save the hub nut. The trans shaft has 4 flats on it and years of crud gets drawn into the threads sealing it like it was epoxied in with rust. This one is a 13yr old.
Spent most time reading the help stories and gathering up tools. My concern was getting the bad parts out and that hub nut without more damage. Finally found a 1924 vintage 9" monkey wrench I forgot I had and it fit just fine for putting it back together. I put a 1/8" bit in the drill and put a hole in center of nut next to the flats about 1/8" down by 3 of the flats. Wacked the nut in 2 locations with the chisel in the unwind direction with the corner of the chisel in the hole to put a grove on the nut so to keep away from damaging trans shaft. It finally came off in 3 pieces.
After pulling the basket stuck a rag in the drain hole. The basket sounds like it has water in it but its the counter weight attached on top. Brushed up the crud on trans shaft and sponged out the remaining water and other particles.
Next was a pump inspection. If you take the input line off you can see the impeller to remove any stuff that may damage it. Have to un-bolt the pump be careful on the wiring to pump trying to unplug the wires may damage the connectors or even worse the pump. I mostly had crud in the water on the line.
Ordered the needed parts, and cleaned up the tub, reinstalled the pump. After the parts arrived took about a 1/2 hour to put it in service again. Don't forget to wack the hub nut on tight when installing so it wont come off in use.
Many thanks to all in sharing their story it helped me out to see what to expect.

The worst part of the repair was removing the old hub nut. Don't bother messing with the spanner wrench, unless the washing machine has never been used. Split the nut off with a SHARP cold chisel and a heavy hammer. Be very careful not to damage the threads, because not even GE can or will tell you the die size to re-dress the threads if you damage them. Check drain pump motor to remove debris before using washer. Parts were delivered in a quick and efficient manner.

First I removed the two clamps that hold the inlet drain hose onto the pump. **There may still be water in the hose** This was pretty easy, but a set of vice grips would have been nice. The space is not too cramped, but required a little bit of wiggling. Putting it on was a little bit harder, just because I did not want to tear the hose on the tub or pump inlet. Make sure both are fully seated or else it could still leak. The drain hose and the clip are pretty self explanatory. I tried to buy a generic drain hose at a big box lumber yard, but I could never make it fit right.

Hope this helps.