WNCK2050HW General Electric Washer - Instructions

Pull front cover and changed pump. Your delivery of this part was remarkable. Thanks for such good service.

Removed front panal & operate to see leak origion. Found the side of the pump cracked and split. Part Select sent the exact replacement part! Unplug washer. Remove ront panal; using a putty knife and a bit of preasure at the two release clips. Using pliers or small vise grips, squeeze hose clamps and locate back out of the way and remove two hoses. Have a shallow pan below to catch remainig water. Unhook the electric connections, taking note of where. Using nut driver or small ratchet, remove the two mounting screws and pump. I used new screw type hose clamps in lieu of the originals.

If you follow the video that part select provides you will be just fine.

First I removed the Front panel with a screwdriver, poped right out. Disconnected the two wires, removed two clamps from hoses on pump, then two screws at base. removed old pump, installed new pump ,tighten two screws, reinstalled hoses and clamps to pump, then put front panel back on, job completed in less than 1/2 hour. tested washer, pump worked and drained tub. easy fix saved cost to repairman $150 plus part cost.
Thanks for the information , learned how to change pump from another repair story on your web site!!

The pump arrived and because I'd read some of the other stories here I wasn't too upset that it looked different.

I used pliers to squeeze the hose clamps and remove them from the old pump. The hex screws holding the old pump in were sort of rusty due to water, and were the majority of the miminal problem I had getting the old pump out. I put the new one in easily, fussed with the hoses a bit to make sure the clamps were in the right spot, plugged in the two leads, and ran a load.

The new pump was so quiet that I wasn't sure it was even working. Of course it was, and for $50 I gave myself a washing machine that works again. Thanks, guys.

I just watchied the clip on the website during the day about how to fix it, went home that night and fixed it.

follow youtube vid. simple

First I unplugged the washer and then removed the front panel of the washing machine using the puddy knife running it along the top edge approximately 3 inches inward from each corner found the tab on each end and pushed in with the knife until the panel popped loose from the top tabs. I then located the pump motor on the lower front right side of the machine and compared it to the new one that I had purchased,(they were the same) Note;be sure all the water is drained from the washer otherwise get ready for a bath approximately 1 gallon of water came out of the drain hose that is located on the back of the pump after using the pliers to squeeze the clap and remove the hose,this was the worst of the whole job,then remove the inlet hose on the top by squeezing the spring clamp with the pliers. Next unplug the harness located in the front of the pump,and then last take a 1/4 drive ratchet w/extension and a 10 mm socket and remove the 2 hex screws on the mounting plate. Install the new pump and motor assembly in reverse order with the instructions above and you should be washing clothes in no time. Thanks

Main thing is watch the video. It may vary a little according to the age of your appliance, as it did with me but common sense guides. The difference was minor on my part. Two hex head screws to remove per strap and they had to make them 1 size different. Go figure. Have your change handy. A ratchet nut driver will save you some time.

I followed the step by step video on how to install the pump..I am 70 years old and female..it was very easy to install..your company is A+..sure liked the savings doing it myself..

The pump would stick and not pump the water out from time to time. I have removed the pump before and cleaned it so to replace it wasn't much different for me. The instructions on the web site were pretty straight and easy to follow.

I purchased the part, watched the video that was embedded in the email I received, folllowed the instructions and was able to wash my laundry. It could not have been any easier unless the the part caem already installed. Thank you.

Replaced pump. New pump same manufacturer and model, but better built; however, base plate not same, requiring that I swap it for the original. Also, pump suction inlet is straight-in, whereas original has 90 degree connection. Disconnect power, and remove old pump. Purchase a 1 1/2" I.D. auto radiator hose, cut off use the 90 degree bend; it's a perfect fit to pump conn.; use a 1" PVC coupling on other end socket to mate to the washer drum convoluted drain hose socket. Throw away the crappy original G.E. hard-to-use spring hose clamps and use stainless steel automotive type gear clamps instead. WARNING: Do not try to bend, stretch, or kink the rubber tub drain hose to fit up to the pump without installing an elbow; the installation geometry must be exactly the same as the factory-designed installation. To finish the job, power up and run the machine through several cycles with the front cover off to check for leaks. You will also see why the rubber drain hose must be reinstalled as described above. This washer does not ramp down speed when in the spin cycle, and when the motor stops, the drum makes a sudden 15 to 30 degree rotation, stretching the drain hose to it's limit. Finally, keep your hands out of the machine when it's running; the motor, belt, and transmission drive can cause some real damage if you get tangled up in them. Pay attention to what you are doing; if you are confused by my little dissertation, hire someone qualified to do the job for you.

After doing some research on the problem I decided that the rubber tub dampers were probably the problem. Replacing them was simple and straight forward after watching the video. A test spin after installation revealed that the problem still existed. This time I watched the bottom of the tub with a flashlight as the spin cycle began and I discovered that the concrete counter-weight was loose on its platform. General Electric had attached a 5 lb concrete block to the tub support with two self tapping sheet metal screws that had stripped out. I screwed the screws back in and added two nuts to the protruding screw bottom and locked them together. Problem solved. The main difficulty in this repair is reaching to the back of the washing while laying on the floor. And sharp edges on everything.

This site and buying experience WOWED ME!!! After realizing what happened, I searched how to open up a washer, since I had never done it before. My search brought me to your site, which had an excellent 'how to' video for my exact problem of replacing the pump! I ordered the part, which was delivered to my door in LESS than 24 hours! Unfortunately, there was undrained water in the washing machine so while undoing the clamps on the old pump, the water drained on my kitchen floor, so beware of that issue. Because of the positioning of the pump, the clamps were a little tricky to redo, but completed without too much difficulty. I also had to 'unplug' (with a coat hanger snake)the drain tube connecting the pump to the back of the washing machine so it could flow to the outside drain pipe. This was the best internet buying experience I have ever had! Thank you so much! I fixed a 15 year old washing machine for about $40.00!!! (And I am a 57 year old grandmother ;-) Woohoo!!!