WWC6622AAL General Electric Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Steven from Denver, CO
- Parts Used:
- WH1X1944
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set
the washer would not agitate, but would spin dry
In my case, the splined shaft (steel) had worn off all splines in the aluminum coupling. So the spin cycle would eventually get enough friction to spin the clothes, but the friction required to agitate the clothes back and forth was too much. Since the splines were worn off, the whole agitator lifted right out with no tools. There is a cap on the top that needs to be kept in good condition, so be careful popping it off. After removing the cap, I cut a hole using a utility knife, then punching a flat head screw driver around the edge. Careful not to damage the edge that the cap seats to. I then matched a socket the size of the top of the coupling and hammered the coupling through the bottom. I used the flat blade also to clear the aluminum out of the splines on the shaft. The fit of the new coupling into the agitator is tight. I put the coupling in the freezer, and the top of agitator in hot water to help resize things for installation. I also used dish soap on the coupling straight out of the freezer. A small amount of grease should be used on the shaft to make it easier and prevent galvanic corrosion. It still took all my weight to install. Don't use a hammer, as you don't want to damage the area the cap goes on. Pop the cap on and wash.
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- Customer:
- Zhiyong from North Potomac, MD
- Parts Used:
- WH1X2026
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Washer can drain but not spin, buring smell
Lay the washer on its side, unscrew three screw to loose the rotor, put the belt and screw the rotor back.
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oil leaking from under side
turned washer upside down- had to remove one frame cross member to get to the seal. replaced seal- replaced frame cross member. stopped the oil leak, but had a small rusted hole in the bottom tub. sanded that clean, inserted a rubber snap-in plug that fit the hole, covered with that monkey glue. let that dry for a while then covered that with BJ weld, let that cure 3 days. washer workes fine now no leaks at all
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- Customer:
- Jan from Cumberland, MD
- Parts Used:
- WH1X1944
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
little or no agitation
Once I figured out what was wrong (splined, hard rubber part of the agitator coupler had parted from the inner, metal part)the job was easy. But I couldn't really tell what was going on until I saw the new coupler ($31.25)which I didn't even have to use. What I did was rough the outside of the metal core with a coarse file, score the inside of the outer, hard rubber part with a screw driver, clean both surfaces thuroughly and reassemble with JB weld. Let sit for 24 hours, and voila. If I had to do it again I could do it in half an hour (not counting glue set-up time).
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