FAFW3511KW2 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

easy repair. I went to the back of the washer and removed the two(?) screws that held the top panel on. Then moved to the front of the washer and unscrewed the two screws in the door frame holding the lock assembly. Pulled it up and out from the top of the washer and disconnected the three wire connections. Then I just reversed the process with the new part. It all worked great. This website rocks...
Phil
Jax, FL

I opening that top from the rear and saw the same part order plugged in then new part attached it properly and then was done.

After getting a quote for $140 for a repair, I decided to try ordering online and hope for the best. I am delighted to say it was incredibly easy! All I had to do was remove the broken valve by unscrewing the water hoses with a wrench and remove two screws that held the valve on with a screw driver. Next, I popped in the new piece, replaced the screws with the screwdriver and attached the hoses, then tightened them with the wrench. Very easy! 10 minutes total.

Very simple hardly worth writing about.

Tilted the washer back to take the 2 screws off the bottom to remove bottom plate. Took the 2 nut screws from the bottom of the face plate so that the front of the washer would pull slightly out from the bottom. Removed the 2 screws from the door stricker plate which allowed the door lock assembly to come out through the side of the washer. Unplugged 3 plugs, plugged the new switch in and slid it back into place, put the 2 screws back in to hold it. Reattached the front and the bottom plate. And bingo done. It worked and saved us about $245.00. Very happy!!!

unscrewed the 2screws from the striker on the washer door first. Then put screwed new striker on door with its new screws. It was a piece of cake.

Nothing to it rteall. The great thing was how fast this company got the part to me!

ordered the part and got the part in three day. A no hassle experience. Installed the latch and eureka! Fixed!

I was amazed at how quickly my part came for the washer and it came to me on a Saturday

Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing for this front loading washer. The Outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge joint, leaving only the lower hinge joint to keep the door mounted onto the washer. Initially, I was unable to remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. (When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor.) Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off of just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. My washer is now working great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

The machine is very heavy. It was setup in a tight elevated drain basin on the top floor of the house. I could not move it off the drain basin onto the floor, so I built a platform and shifted the machine on to the platform. Once the machine was on the platform, I located an access panel on the back of the machine, removed it and found the pump. Part Select indicated that a drainage problem was probably the pump or the filter, so I bought both. I removed the pump and found a finishing nail had passed through the filter into the pump and jammed the pump's propeller. So, I replaced the jammed pump with the new pump. The existing filter seemed OK and a lot of trouble to remove, so I left it in place. I re-assembled the machine , pushed it back into place and it has worked ever since. Lessons learned: the clamps that hold the inlet and output hoses to the pump are really difficult to remove and replace without the right tool. Don't leave finishing nails in the pockets of your dirty work pants; be ware of very sharp edges on the bottom the machine and consider turning the machine over if you need to replace more than just the pump.