FAFS4174NR1 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Very simple hardly worth writing about.

Tilted the washer back to take the 2 screws off the bottom to remove bottom plate. Took the 2 nut screws from the bottom of the face plate so that the front of the washer would pull slightly out from the bottom. Removed the 2 screws from the door stricker plate which allowed the door lock assembly to come out through the side of the washer. Unplugged 3 plugs, plugged the new switch in and slid it back into place, put the 2 screws back in to hold it. Reattached the front and the bottom plate. And bingo done. It worked and saved us about $245.00. Very happy!!!

I was amazed at how quickly my part came for the washer and it came to me on a Saturday

Nothing to it rteall. The great thing was how fast this company got the part to me!

ordered the part and got the part in three day. A no hassle experience. Installed the latch and eureka! Fixed!

put new part did reset on main controles

unscrewed the 2screws from the striker on the washer door first. Then put screwed new striker on door with its new screws. It was a piece of cake.

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.

After some research online about my Frigidaire Washer, I pre-determined that the problem could likely be the lock mechanism. I ordered the part and it arrived within 3 business days. My son removed the screws from the back of the washer, slid the top off and removed the old part and replaced it with the new part. It took about 20 mins. The machine is now working properly again. The door catch that I ordered did not work with the door lock I ordered. However, the old door catch that was still in good working order does work with the new door lock and switch assembly that I purchased.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.