FAFW3001LW7 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Went by the percentage of people with same problem- door switch was the highest. Ordered door switch and a new belt (belt was getting worn- 6 yrs. old) Door switch did not fix problem. Saw on website that it could be motor control board. Took motor control board out. Nothing visible wrong with anything. Decided not to spend $$ on new board. Figured new washer would be better. Put motor control board back in and tried it......works like new! Must have been a loose wire on the motor control board. Next time I will check wires first. :) Getting motor control board in and out was time consuming but no too hard.

Removed top cover to get access to intake pipe for hot & cold water. Remove electrical connections and two screws replaced part and cover. Thanks very quick service.

The previous posts made it dead easy - remove screws at the back holding top in place; slide top back; remove screws holding door latch assembly; disconnect three plugs, and connect new part. Replace fastenings, done! Throw up hands and wait for the official time;)

Unscrewed two screws, replaced door striker and screwed the same two screws back in! I was done in less than 3 minutes!

I unplugged the washer. Then I unscrewed the two screws on the back, top edge of the washer. and lifted the top off. Next I unscrewed the door lock/switch assembly, reached down in the machine from the top and pulled the switch out. As I unplugged each one of the three plugs from the bad part, I plugged them into the corresponding connections of the good part. Then I screwed the switch back into place, replaced the top of the washer and screwed it back on. I set the washer spin and cheered madly when it went into spin mode. The hardest part was actually turning the screws because I'm a small woman and my hand strength is not what it used to be. But really there was nothing difficult about this repair.

The hardest part was figuring out how to get the lid off. You simply remove two screws from the back of the lid and jerk and slide the lid towards the back of the machine. Take out the screws that hold the front panel on, tilt the front out and access the lock/switch assembly and replace.

First I removed the two screws that hold the pump in place. I then pulled the pump out and replaced it with the new pump.

I released the door gasket and unscrewed the unit .Labeled the connections. then reconnected reattached, then put gasket back on. Worked like a charm!

I unclipped the old drawer parts from the broken drawer and replaced the old parts onto the new drawer and slid the whole drawer back in the washing machine. It took longer to type this that it did to repair the washer. No tools needed at all.

Following the instructions on your page I was able to see quite clearly what needed to be done. I received the new part promptly and my machine is now working fine. However, the ongoing story with the dryer is another matter.

i removed the front panel, then removed the old pump by taking off the clamps and disconnected the wiring. The new pump had to be reversed before connecting, but it was so easy.

Simple. Remove the drive belt from the pulley. Next remove the retaining screw and remove the old pulley. Put the new pulley on the hub, then insert the retaining screw and tighten securely. Last, replace the belt over the motor and hub pulley. This was the most difficult part as the new belt was quite tight. But once I convinced myself it was the right belt a little more effort yielded results and the belt fit fine.

I unplugged the washer, turned off hot and cold water at the source. I wrenched off the 2 hoses from the washer (have a towel handy for the residual water in the hoses and keep them elevated until you can drain the residual water out into drain site, where you turn off the water supply). I removed the 2 screws that held the top panel on (back side top corners) & slide off top to see interior. I used screw driver to pop off plastic piece that secures 3 tubes (hot water, cold water & exhaust vent). I then unplugged all 3 wire harnesses from the water valve & temperature wire from left side [assuming you are standing at the back of the machine where you have to be to do all this work]. I then untwisted the exhaust vent plastic tube (large cream tube at far right in machine) & somehow managed to get it pulled out. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the old water valve- one on left is easy, the one on the right is difficult due to lower position next to exhaust vent - I had to hold my other hand [thankfully I have small hands] under the screw location as my screwdriver was not magnetic so I wouldn't drop the screw into the machine). I then removed the valve assembly by pulling slowly backward & removed. I then just reversed the above to replace the new one. Not bad for my 1st washer fix ever. I've used it 5 cycles now and no issues.

Apparently the faulty switch was causing the washer to think that the door was open which would pause the wash cycle. The temporary fix was to disconnect/reconnect the door lock/switch assembly, thereby resetting the switch. Eventually though, the switch had to be replaced. The repair was simple. Unplug washer from power. Remove the metal band and spring from around the perimeter of the door seal. (I had to use needle-nose pliers for this step). Loosen the rubber seal near the door latch area only. Remove old latch by unscrewing the two screws, and disconnect all wired connections. Reconnect wired connectors using the new part and screw back on to the washer using the two screws. Reseat the rubber door seal and hold in place using the metal ring and spring you removed in the first step. Plug washer back in to power. That's it.

Removed top cover of washer to get to the door lock mechanism then used a phillips head screwdriver to remove door lock mechanism. I then replaced door lock mechanism with the new one I bought from PartsSelect. The repair job was very easy and took a total of 15 minutes to remove old part and install new one.