6389-80B Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

It took longer to remove and then replace the back of the washer than to replace the water inlet valve. The video made it look easy and it was!. For the next perso: remember that if the water valve springs a leak and the washer has water in it, turn the dial to spin and the water will leave the drum. No need to siphon out the water.

Ordered the part online from PartSelect and it arrived Friday morning just 3 days later to my front door. Removed 2 screws, disconnected 2 wires, screwed the new part into place, plugged in the new wires and it still didn't work. Looks like my washer is just too old. So . . . I called PartSelect, explained everything. Three days later a full refund was in my bank account. Shop PartSelect with confidence. I will be back!

I removed the back cover after disconnecting the electric and shutting off the water. I then proceeded to disconnect the water lines and then removed the water inlet valve by removing the two screws holding it in place. Then I used pliers to remove the hose leading to the washer. After that I did everything in reverse and was back in business. The video was very helpful and it made me feel comfortable with the procedure. I now know a little more about washers. Thanks for the excellent information.

lifted up top panel unscrewed two phillips screws at bottom of front panel, lifted up and out and removed the panel exposing motor and belt .pushed in belt tensioner and removed belt.Then I slid the new belt under the tub pulley and rotated it until belt was on both the tub pulley and motor pulley,released belt tensioner and the job was over,

Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.

watched the video on website, printed instructions for feedback.

I used a flat-head screw driver to lift the main lid up off the washer to get to the washer lid safety switch..Unplug the plug from the electrical outlet. Removed the 4 wires from the switch, and removed 2 screws to remove the old switch..Then install the new safety switch in reverse order.

Used flat head screw driver to pry up the top. Removed front cover. Pushed tension idler pulley back to release tension on the belt. Removed old belt. Put new belt on motor pulley and idler pulley. Started one edge on main pulley and slowly rotated main pulley until the belt popped in place. Tested on spin cycle. Replaced front cover and top. Unfortunately, this didn't stop the noise...turned out a shipping screw was still in place. Removed the shipping screw and voila! no noise. It's always the little things that get ya.

released hold down clips on top and removed two screws at the bottom of the front panel and firmly pushed down on the panel to release it exposing the motor drive assembly and idler tension pulley i released tension on the drive belt removed the pulley from the assembly replaced it with the new pulley including the pressure washer which keeps the pulley stable realigned the belt and replaced the front cover and closed the top. done.

Watched the handy-dandy video, removed the defective part, waited for delivery, installed the new part and was back washing another load (minus the wet floor) in less than 10 minutes! Just one catch, I am a 56yo female with nominal hand strength, so technically, I had to recruit the help of a (stronger) person to tighten-up those self-tapping screws. I didn't feel so weak when I noticed that he had some difficulty as well. LOL! Ladies, don't be shy asking for help-I even tried the power drill with no success. Excellent video! Aside from the self-tapping screws, my grand-daughter could have managed this repair!

Used a metal cooking spoon to pry open the lid, held it in place with a chain (mentioned in the tools required) and used needlenose pliers to remove the clamp on the old hose assmbly. Transferd that clamp to the new hose assembly and replace the (1) screw holding it in place. Closed the lid of the washer, and now it is like the problm had never existed. (Very easy fix, 1 of 10 on difficulty scale).

UNPLUG APPLIANCE....very simple installation. Raise THE top and the switch is in the corner. Unplug the wiring harness and remove the 2 screws that hold the lid lock on. Reverse the procedure and replace the lid lock.

lifed the lid .remove oud hose and replaced with new hose

removed front cover pushed in tensioner by hand walked belt off pulleys tilted belt removed lock ring pulled tensioner off noticed right rear lower tub brace broke at spot weods drilled out spot welds nut and bolted rear brace put springs back on base and installed belt works like new and saved myself from replacing lower washer tub frame so 70.00 and she up and running again