FAFW4221LW0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Santa Fe, NM
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Pump runs but washer will not spin
Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
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- Customer:
- Fred from Wakefield, RI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Went into pause mode when starting
Completed by my wife on line instruction video
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Machine kept saying door open, even though the door was closed
Followed the YouTube video and was done in less than 10 minutes. This is the second time that I've purchased this part from your company and will continue to return because of the high usage of our washer, the part needs replacing every 3 years or so.
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- Customer:
- Amistad St from Atlanta, GA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
missing a piece on the door
Thank you.
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- Customer:
- Gene from Atlantic City, NJ
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Latch was broken
Only two screws and it was done,easy repair
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- Customer:
- Kamlyn from Huntington Becah, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
latch to door broke and would not stay shut
I unscrewed the two screws and replaced with new door striker and used the same two screws I took out. It took me seriously less than 2 minutes and I am a woman!
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- Customer:
- Melinda from Converse, TX
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door strike broke, (i guess it happened during recent move)
Super simple, unscrewed the existing screws, removed broken piece, attached piece, screw it in. Done deal!
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- Customer:
- Jennifer from League city, TX
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Machine wouldn't spin
Removed 2 screws , unplugged the old switch , replaced with new one and secured with screws . Easy !!
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- Customer:
- Rebecca from Frisco, TX
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
plastic piece broke from door strike keeping door from closing and therefore the washer wouldn't work.
Ordered a replacement door strike which was easily replaced with Phillips screwdriver. I was very grateful that the part was so easy to find on this website. It was helpful that I had saved my book with model number of washer which allowed me to find the exact part needed. Thanks!!!!
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Front load washer would not spin
First we took the pump off and it was full so we hoped replacing it as the fan blades were broke and it didn't help. We replaced the control board and that didn't change it either. So I checked here and the door strike and door switch could be the problem so I ordered and put them on that was the problem. Thanks so much. Instructions were well printed and the job was about 5 minutes to replace. The washer works perfectly. We should have started with these parts first and it may not have cost so much.
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machine would not cycle and would not drain
I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out
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- Customer:
- Jim from Dyersburg, TN
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not go into spin cycle
Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.
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- Customer:
- SCOTT from SALINE, MI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door lock mechanism broke and washer would not run
You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!
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- Customer:
- Janet from Boise, ID
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
plastic end of strike broken
I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks
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- Customer:
- John from Fullerton, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Nylon door latch broke off. Poor design. The hinges on the Affinity washer and dryer have hinges that won't keep the latches aligned, so the strike hit the body and broke off.
Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.
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