FAFW3517KR0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

The leveling legs on my Frigidaire stackable washer & dryer were broken. They are made of plastic and while moving the unit one of the legs had broke off. I ordered two replacements from PartSelect and received them within a few days. The old legs were removed by screwing them out and then the new ones were installed. Pretty easy installation for DIY. The new legs work great.

I followed the instalation instructions provided with new parts. Getting the mounting pins out was relatively easy However, the shock on the right, behind the pump, was a bit more difficult to remove than the one on the left. I took the rubber drain off the pump in order to get at the pin behind the pump. The new replacement shocks came with the plastic bushings inserted in the shocks in alternate directions. The original pins were all inserted into the bracket / shocks from the rear so when I installed the new shocks I reinserted one bushing on each shock so they we both oriented in the same direction. The instruction says to be sure the mounting pin is pressed from the side with the busing collar. It seemed strange the shocks came that way, with no mention of switching them. The most difficult part on the installation was pushing the pins back through the bracket and shock since there was no easy way to push the pins in from the rear. I used a large channel locks on the left side, but the right side was more difficult with all of the obstructions. I finally was able to push in place with my bare hands but was very difficult. Sorry to say the new shocks did not cure the vibration at all. I was very careful to make sure the machine is level. I'm not sure if there is a cure other than replacing the machine.

pulled the retaining ring then unscrewed 2 screws removed the bad switch and unplugged the old wires then hooked them back to the new switch...this was the second switch in approximately 2 years...

I started by removing the two screws at the back of the washer and taking the top off of the washing machine. Than I removed the two screws securing the door lok and switch assembly. I disconected the two or three electrical connections and install the new one in the reverse order.

This repair was pretty simple. Unplug washer from electrical outlet and remove hoses. This is a good time to replace the hoses. Removed two screws at the back of the washer to remove the top of the washer. This exposed the faulty valve assembly. Disconnect the three connections. There are two screws holding this part in place. The top one is easy to remove, the bottom one is a little more difficult due to access. Remove plastic retainer plate on back of washer. Remove faulty valve assembly. There are two rubber grommets/gaskets that will need to be removed from the faulty part and installed on the new part. Slide new assembly into place. Secure with the two screws. Replace retainer plate. Reattach power connections. Reattach hoses and finally Reinstall top of washer. Total time was right around 30 minutes.

Watched the video on website and followed what they said. Worked great.

Watched a u tube video and did it myself and I'm a 58 year old woman who has never worked on a washer before!

After making sure there was no blockages and the pump was not jammed I knew it was time for a new one . Unplug the machine and turn off the hot and cold water . Remove the two screws on the bottom of the front of the machine and push down on the panel it should come right off . Make sure all the water is drained out of the tub use a wet/dry vacuum to suck out all the water if needed . Then with the vacuum empty squeeze the clamps that hold the hoses on the pump and push them out of the way . Use the vacuum to suck up any leftover water, as you remove both hoses . Unplug the one set of wires going to the pump . Remove both screws and the pump should now be loose . Do the same thing in reverse to install the new pump . Other than dealing with the water it should take under 15 minutes . Good Luck

The replacement of the Shock Absorber Kit was hampered on the right side by a metal box that was mounted just a little shorter than the bottom plastic pin. the deadblow hammer with the dowel worked with all the pins including the impeded pin and the top right pin which had to be removed at an angle. The replacement did not repair the washer - it is the tub bearing which went in a previous washer of a similar model about 4 years ago.

Put machine on dolly. Tilted it on its back. Put screw driver into sheared leg and unscrewed broken leveling leg. Then screwed new leg in and tilted machine back up.

the work is simple, its getting it done. The pins that hold the shocks in are very hard to get to and no room to swing a hammer. I had to use a C- clamp on the left upper in and it was no picnic. The washer in the video was a little different than mine.

It was a very easy fix. Called a repairman and they wanted 350.00 to come out. Ordered the door lock and switch assembly for 76.00 and it was fixed in 15 minutes. Thank you for shipping the part so fast. Much appreciated.

For some time, our washer's door was vibrating and making noise during the spin cycles. Then after washing a large blanket, the drum stopped spinning all together. I was able to slide the top of the washer off after undoing the screws in the back and then following the directions, found that the error code was for the washer door. The drum would not spin because it thought that the door was open, confirming what we thought, the door lock and switch assembly were bad.
I was able to unscrew the assembly from the front, then reach down and after ordering the new part, disconnect the 3 cables, remove the old part then redo the cables on the new assembly and Voila...working washer, woo hoo!

First unplug the machine, then remove two srews on the back of the machine for the top cover. Remove top cover and then remove two srews that hold the door locking part. Put your hand in the machine and grab the part. unplug the three wire harnessess then plug them back and put back in place and put the two srews back and then the top cover and two srews as well.

"Instructions" with the kit suggest pulling the pins out with a pair of pliers. That's fine if you're a gorilla. It's easier to use a 13MM boxed-end wrench. Slip it over the tapered end to depress the locking tab; then tap a 3/8 dowel rod held against the tapered end to remove the pin. Also my washer has a drain tube that has to be disconnected to get access to the top pin. If I had to do this again it would take about an hour.