FAFS4474LN0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Everything went great, except replacing the rubber seal, that was a little bit harder to put back in place. But other then that, went very well and easy to repair.

During this repair job, I replaced the outer door cover and door hinge of this front loading washer. The outer door cover had cracked and shattered above the top hinge pin, leaving only the lower hinge pin to keep the door mounted onto the washer. The outer door cover contains the door hinge housing. Initially, I could not remove the hinge from the front of the washer, because the attaching flat-head screws were REALLY torqued onto the washer. My hand held screwdriver was unable to loosen these screws, so I bought a Black & Decker cordless 12V impact driver from Home Depot for $59. This power tool worked great, and I removed the hinge assembly and door from the washer. When you're using the impact driver, make sure you've got the correct sized bit for the Phillips head. You can buy a bit set at Home Depot. If you don't use the correct size, you'll just strip the head, and then you'll also have to buy a damaged screw extractor. Once the hinge was removed, I discovered that the lower hinge arm had been bent, due to the door hanging off just the lower arm. When I attempted to straighten out the hinge arm, it broke off. After a few choice words, I ordered a new hinge assembly from PartSelect. Once I received the new hinge, I reassembled the door, and attached the hinge to the washer. When seating the plastic hinge bushings into the outer door hinge housing, make sure the slotted tabs of both hinge bushings are fitted snugly into the hinge housing. You won’t be able to reassemble the inner and outer door covers if the bushings are not seated properly, I finally got everything back together, and now my washer works great. Using perfect hindsight, I would also recommend that my fellow handymen replace the proprietary flat-head screws which hold the hinge onto the washer. My first attempts to remove the hinge screws damaged them pretty badly. You should also consider replacing all the screws which hold the inner and outer door panels together.

There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!

Installed New shock absorbers and new door strike. The existing broken shock absorbers caused the drum to oscillate and pull wires from door lock switch.

The door assembly did not fix the problem this time, it was the control panel that had to be replaced. I have replaced the door assembly in the past, and I am glad I have a spare on hand. They do go out over time from the pressure of large batches of clothes. I am "no repair man", but having someone come out to replace it for you is a $300.00 job, easily. Read the tech info for your error code and go from there.

The front loading washer door was wobbely so I took it apart as per wife request. Hinge looked fine, bushings were fine so I started to put it back together... then the glass slipped out and to the ground. Take the time to remove the door hinge and assemble on a flat surface, then place the whole assemble back on the washer machine. Don't try to take door apart while still attached to machine. Try it you will understand and then you will be buying a new glass front.

Our washer is in a very tight spot, and we use the top for storage, so it was a job moving everything and pulling the washer away from the wall. Unplugged, then took the 2 screws off the back, dropped one and retreived it with masking tape on a dowel. Got the top to slide back, then took the screws off the latch. Crammed my arm down inside (very tight) and grabbed the latch, pulling it out the top. Labeled both sides of the connections with colored masking tape (in case we need to replace this part again, but I hope not). Got everything back together, then put the top back on, dropping the same scew behind, retreived it,plugged the power in and it works!!

In order to get to the switch located on the right front behind the from panel the top had to be removed with 2 screws holding it in place on the back of the machine. Next the top front control panel needed to be removed by first removing the detergent drawer on the top left of the washer. There are 3 screws that need to be removed behind the slide out dispenser. ALS there are 2screws on the top left and right that need to be removed.. Once these are all removed you can slip the control panel up and over the top and let it rest there. I might suggest that you should unplug the machine from the electrical outlet. Once this is all done there are 4 screws holding the bottom of the front panel that must be removed. If you have pedestals on your machine you can pull the drawer out to get to them. If not you will need tp tilt the machine back and using a block let it rest on it to get to them. Once these are removed you will need to remove the block and set the washer back on its feet. There are now 2 screws at the top to be removed. Once removed lift and pull out the front panel. Set aside. You are now ready to remove the front rubber boot from the washer.. There is a spring that is behind the front rubber that needs to be removed. Using a screwdriver, at the bottom of the front boot you will see the springs once you peel a bit of the rubber back. Remove the spring and set aside.. Now you are ready to remove the door lock switch. Using a Phillips screwdriver remove the screws from the front panel and push the switch back toward the rear. It should pop out very easy. Unplug the switch from the harness and replace with a new switch.. Put the machine back together in the reverse order. Hope this helps.

I replaced doorlok as every one sujested but that did not fix it I then replaced thr control panel with a new upgraded one. It is not that simple for an amature. New control came with one of the control shafts missing had difficulty getting it in position so so control would be on right function. after all that I found diagnostic instructions taped to bottom of washer

with a code it gave me i was able to determeine it was the door lock switch it was so easy it was unbelievable

Using a youtube video, (which might have actually been related to parts select), the door lock replacement went smoothly AFTER I couldn't SEE the SPRING around the rubber boot, as the spring was the SAME color and with a little bit of dust on it, was indistinguishable. As soon as I found it, the rest was fairly simple. I MIGHT even try replacing the moldy boot on these stupid front loaders...I paid for overnight shipping as I also had Geek squad guys on hold for repair, and needed to know fast, whether or not this would do the trick. HOORAY!

Remove the 2 screws on the rear of the top panel. Open door and remove the 2 screws holding the latch assembly. Reach down and pull up latch. Remove the 3 wire connectors. Plug wire into new latch and re-install in reverse order.

Thank you.

I merely unscrewed the two screws at the top and bottom of the striker, removed the broken part, and screwed on the new one. It probably took about five minutes. I was very proud, as I was able to identify the problem, order the part and install it without involving my husband :-)

I am a 64 year old female that had never attempted to fix anything. This was my 1st attempt at fixing something. It took longer to look for phillips screwdriver than it took took to repair it. Thank you so much for instructions.