FAFS4474LN0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions

Very simple hardly worth writing about.

Tilted the washer back to take the 2 screws off the bottom to remove bottom plate. Took the 2 nut screws from the bottom of the face plate so that the front of the washer would pull slightly out from the bottom. Removed the 2 screws from the door stricker plate which allowed the door lock assembly to come out through the side of the washer. Unplugged 3 plugs, plugged the new switch in and slid it back into place, put the 2 screws back in to hold it. Reattached the front and the bottom plate. And bingo done. It worked and saved us about $245.00. Very happy!!!

I was amazed at how quickly my part came for the washer and it came to me on a Saturday

Nothing to it rteall. The great thing was how fast this company got the part to me!

ordered the part and got the part in three day. A no hassle experience. Installed the latch and eureka! Fixed!

unscrewed the 2screws from the striker on the washer door first. Then put screwed new striker on door with its new screws. It was a piece of cake.

put new part did reset on main controles

with the help of my nephew, we unstacked dryer after power sources were shutoff first. then simply removed the two screw attaching lid on washer. then removed two screws holding switch from front of machine. fished switch up to a visible area, exchanged bad for good. fed switch back to it's home,then reversed assembly procedures. these forums are great and have saved me money by enabling the repair both washer and dryer at a very reasonable cost without the need of a certified repair person.

Washer error code said control board($200.) but this web site said Door Lock and Switch assembly($80). Web site was correct, thankyou for saving me money and time for the real repair needed.

Unscrew the the bad part, screw on the new part

Unable to get the door hinge off the machine after 6 years, one screw would not budge and was beginning to strip the head. If you take the door apart while still mounted to the hinge, you must have another person hold the door pieces securely, or you will likely break the tab on the front door piece that fits into the hinge bushing. Don't let that happen! Easy does it, hold it still, unscrew all the screws and gently pop the inside piece away from the outside piece, HOLDING IT SECURELY. Use gloves so you don't get cut, that glass is really sharp. Good idea to use some masking tape and cover the cut edges...I thought of this too late...wish I'd have done it. Lining up the bushings is probably the hardest part while getting the front and back pieces together with the big glass bubble secured, and again, HELD SECURELY by another person. This really was easy, but I wish someone had mentioned whether to take the hinge off or not, unfortunately, I could not. I had to get creative, and the fix was perfect, even if I did initially break the tab that lines up the bushing...I wasn't spending ANOTHER $90 for the teensy tab being broken. It works perfectly with my fix - but it won't if you can't fix that tab! I was glad I didn't have to call a repairman!!!

Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.

Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.

This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.

IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.

When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.

The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.

The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)

1 2 3 4 5 6

Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.

Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.

Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.

Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.

Unscrewed two phillips head screws, removed damaged part, screwed on replacement part. Presto! Washer works again. I especially appreciated receiving the part less than 48 hours after I ordered it with only regular shipping charge.

took the top off removed the old one and put in the new one.Works great!!

Take a deep breath and say, "I can do this. I will not pay well over $100 for someone else to come and do it."! Identifying part easy, mail very quick, web instructions clear, took out two screws, slipped out old part, put in new one, replace screws. I loved every minute of it and it cost $16.20 (part and shipping). Thanks, Part Select!