FAFS4473LR0 Frigidaire Washer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dallas from Takoma Park, MD
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken door strike leading to broken door lock and switch assembly
Replacing the door strike is very easy. Two screws. The broken pieces stay in the door lock/switch assembly. The first time I got them out with needle nose pliers. A year later it happened again and this time I had to replace the lock/switch assembly. I followed procedure others mention here: Two screws at back of washer release the top. Slide that back. Then undo the two screws in the front of the assembly and lift it out, and replace. The important thing is that the door on the washer no longer aligns with the door lock/switch assembly, so we have to carefully (!) lift it to shut it. Do not slam. The issue with the door arises because instructions say to keep the door open so that mold does not grow in the basin. But the hinge on the door is not strong enough to support the door as it stands open when at rest over the years and it has begun to give way. This washer needs a new and stronger hinge. Meanwhile, do not slam your door. Shut it gently, lift if necessary, even on a new machine!
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- Customer:
- Thomas from Santa Fe, NM
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Pump runs but washer will not spin
Installation of Part # 131-763-202 door lock and switch Assy.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
Note that the only reasonable access to the lock and switch Assy is by removing the front of the gasket between the drum and the cabinet. It is also the only necessary access.
This problem is unique to older models. My experience was a bit frustrating but the solution was finally found. While it took me a long time (and extra parts) to figure out the problem, the solution is actually pretty easy.
IF you have an machine with a black striker/catch on the door, the installation is not entirely straightforward, The black striker/catch on the door has an L-shaped lower prong that engages the door latch. This striker/catch will NOT work with the newer door lock. The required striker/catch is part # 134-456-600. It is white, and has a diamond-shaped upper prong.
When you remove the older-style lock (Part # 1231-269-400) that accepts the black striker/catch, you will immediately notice that there are more electrical connections on the new part than on the old. This requires some minor rewiring.
The two connections (Bl/W and w) that go to the latch solenoid are unchanged and attach to the brown solenoid on the new part.
The arrangement of the other connections on the new lock/latch is as follows (numbering is mine)
1 2 3 4 5 6
Terminals 2 and 3 are the “PTC” and must be connected to the red (double) and white wires that are on a special double plug. The plug must be cut off and replaced by regular (F) spade connectors. DO NOT be tempted to insert the double plug into the new lock. Although it fits, it does NOT work.
Connect the two door-lock switch wires (Bk and Bk/R) to terminals 5 and 6.
Note that with the new lock, the machine has to rest a while before the catch is released, the door catch is not released as soon as the door-lock light goes off.
Note also that the actuation of the switch in the door lock is NOT purely mechanical as in the older door lock. Pressing the striker/catch into the lock will NOT close the contacts between terminals 5 and 6. Some magic happens inside the door lock mechanism through the PTC that closes this switch. This same magic is probably responsible for the delay in releasing the door latch. This drove me crazy for a while as I thought the lock and switch Assy was defective.
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- Customer:
- Cindy from Sacramento, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The Part was very difficult to reach from the top.
There was not a video available on your site so I went to U-Tube and found one. Instead of reaching the part from the top I took off the rubber boot from the front and it was so much easier. Once I found and watched the video the entire repair took about 15 minutes. Now the washer works like new!!
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- Customer:
- Bonny from Woodbridge, VA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The plastic striker on the front loader door broke off, preventing the door from locking and thus, the washer wouldn't start.
I merely unscrewed the two screws at the top and bottom of the striker, removed the broken part, and screwed on the new one. It probably took about five minutes. I was very proud, as I was able to identify the problem, order the part and install it without involving my husband :-)
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Machine kept saying door open, even though the door was closed
Followed the YouTube video and was done in less than 10 minutes. This is the second time that I've purchased this part from your company and will continue to return because of the high usage of our washer, the part needs replacing every 3 years or so.
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- Customer:
- David from Searcy, AR
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Broke the strick on the door. Would not stay closed.
Got on line order the part from PartSelect. Got the part quick and the instructions was so easy my wife fixed it.
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- Customer:
- Vernon from Chesapeake, VA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The door strike broke
It took all of five minutes, two screws and done. Saved $150.00 on the service charge, while the part cost less than $15.00 for the parts including S/H.
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- Customer:
- Amistad St from Atlanta, GA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
missing a piece on the door
Thank you.
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- Customer:
- John from Fullerton, CA
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Nylon door latch broke off. Poor design. The hinges on the Affinity washer and dryer have hinges that won't keep the latches aligned, so the strike hit the body and broke off.
Repair was easy. Two screws held it on. It's set into the door, so there is no adjustment. However, I should have bought a couple of extra ones, because the design problem is still inherent, and it will break the next time somebody is in a hurry and "slams" the door, or pulls it open before the cycle is completed. The ten pound door is held by a stike less than 1/8" thick.
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- Customer:
- Jim from Dyersburg, TN
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Would not go into spin cycle
Took off top. Removed 2 screws on Door Lock Assembly and replaced.
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- Customer:
- SCOTT from SALINE, MI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door lock mechanism broke and washer would not run
You must remove the top of the washer with screws on rear of washer. Top slides forward to remove. Once top is removed you can reach door lock mechanism from the top. Two screws must be removed from the front of the washer where lock enters mech. You can grab the mechanism from above by the wires that run to it. Undo wiring harness and insert new mehanism. Slide into place and attach in the front of washer with screws. This job is easy and can save you a lot on repair bills!
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- Customer:
- Brian from Brillion, WI
- Parts Used:
- 131763256
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Washer would not go into spin cycle
1. Remove the spring clamp around the tub seal. 2. Pull back the tub seal in the area by the door lock switch. 3. Remove the switch assembly by removing two Phillips screws. 4. Remove connectors from switch. 5. Install connectors onto new switch. 6. Mount new switch on washer with two Phillips screws. Reinstall tub seal making sure to tuck it correctly on the washer frame. 7. Reinstall spring clamp.
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- Customer:
- Janet from Boise, ID
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver
plastic end of strike broken
I didn't have the right tool, so asked my handyman neighbor to come do a few projects and he had the driver in his pocket screw driver. it is a tip that is included in many multi-tip drivers. two screws removed the old and replaced the new. cheaper than local parts place, and no repair man. thanks
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machine would not cycle and would not drain
I read other problems, I jumped the gun and purchased the door switch, this was easy to change, but MY machine still had the same issues, however, I found that the filter was plugged, and after I cleaned this out, this fixed my issues and the machine works fine, So I now have a door switch and striker should mine go bad, Hope this helps out
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- Customer:
- Janet from Charleston, SC
- Parts Used:
- 131763302
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Door strike broke off, washer would not run
Unscrewed two phillips head screws, removed damaged part, screwed on replacement part. Presto! Washer works again. I especially appreciated receiving the part less than 48 hours after I ordered it with only regular shipping charge.
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